Archive for May, 2009

How to Reduce Your Australian Labradoodle's Ecological Footprint

Monday, May 11th, 2009

reducefootprint

Great article we found from Modern Dog Magazine
7 easy things you can do right now

1. Make the switch once and for all to biodegradable dog poo bags. What are you waiting for? scoopies.com

2. Order ecologically sound dog beds and organic, pesticide free dog food from olivegreendog.com or greedogpetsupply.com, sites specializing in environmentally friendly pet supplies.

3. Go natural — make your own natural flea spray and deodorizer. Goodbye chemicals!

4. Eat locally. Search out a dog cookie company making and baking locally.

5. Banish the plastic bag. Buy a reusable canvas shopping bag for trips to the grocer and the pet food store.

6. Consider durability when purchasing dog toys. Better to buy one high-priced, puncture-proof toy than dozens of a cheaper variety that won¹t last past a few good play sessions.

7. Put away the plastic wrap and tin foil and instead cover that half-empty can of dog food with a reusable, snap-on plastic lid. torudog.com.

Article from Modern Dog Website

http://www.moderndogmagazine.com/articles/how-reduce-your-dogs-ecological-footprint/40

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Chocolate Australian Labradoodle Puppies At Manor Lake

Thursday, May 7th, 2009

Our Lily gave birth to ten darling chocolate Australian Labradoodle puppies, five sweet girls and five very handsome boys. These puppies will mature at a large medium/ small standard size and will be ready to go to their new homes around the end of June. For  more information on this litter please contact us at kim@manorlakelabradoodles.com or mollie@manorlakelabradoodles.com. Enjoy the photos!

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Find Out If Your Australian Labradoodle Is A Genius

Thursday, May 7th, 2009

Awesome article about your Australian Labradoodle’s memory
Is Your Dog a Genius?

Test Your Dog’s Memory

By Stanley Coren

You only go to the vet maybe once a year for those regular check-ups and booster shots, but, sure enough, whenever you get within five blocks of the vet’s office, your dog starts whining, panting, and looking anxious. Does she really remember from year to year the exact route you drive to get there?

Most people are interested in how intelligent their dog is. While there are predictable differences based upon the dog’s breed (for example, Border Collies are a lot smarter and more trainable than Bulldogs), there is a lot of variability within each breed. This means that some Border Collies might be rather slow-thinking, while some Bulldogs might be college material. There are some well-documented tests for the general mental abilities of dogs (such as the one described in my book, The Intelligence of Dogs), and all such tests include measures of a dog’s memory.

Memory is a critical component of dog intelligence, since your dog can’t learn if she can’t remember. This makes tests of a dog’s memory a good approximation of just how bright she is in general. However, memory changes with age. Older dogs show symptoms that are similar to the memory losses found in older humans, and severe cases show memory declines similar to those found in Alzheimer’s Disease (in dogs, it is called “Canine Cognitive Dysfunction”).

Whether you are merely curious about your dog’s memory ability or worried about possible memory loss in an older dog, here is a simple test that you can give your dog at home. Two conditions must be met for the test to be valid.

First, your dog (to be original, let’s call her “Lassie”) must be at least a year old. It is also necessary for Lassie to have been living in the same place for at least ten weeks; otherwise the environmental memory test won’t work. You’ll need a stopwatch or a watch with a second hand, and an assistant to hold the dog is helpful.

Short-term memory
The first test looks at short-term memory. You may observe failures in your own short term memory in situations when you ask for a phone number from an operator and correctly dial it immediately, meaning that the number is stored in your short-term memory. However, when you get a busy signal and hang up to dial the number again, you often find you’ve forgotten the number, since short-term memory fades quickly.

The test requires an average-sized room that doesn’t have a lot of furniture or other material cluttering it. You need a tidbit of food that has no strong odour (otherwise, Lassie’s scenting ability will bias the results). If Lassie will not reliably sit and stay on command, have a helper present to hold her.

To start, place Lassie on a leash, and have her sit in the center of the room. While she watches you, show her the treat, then, with a great exaggerated show (but no sound), place the tidbit in a corner, making sure that she sees you put it down. Lead her out of the room, walk around in a small circle, and then bring her back to the center of the room. Leaving the room and returning to it should take no more than about fifteen seconds. Slip the leash off the dog, and start the stopwatch.

Scoring
If Lassie goes directly to the bait, score 5.
If she systematically sniffs around the edge of the room and finds the tidbit, score 4.
If she seems to search in a random fashion but nevertheless finds the tidbit within 45 seconds, score 3.
If she appears to try to find the tidbit but still hasn’t succeeded after 45 seconds, score 2.
If she makes no effort to find the bait, score 1.

Long-term memory
The next test looks at long-term memory, which is relatively permanent and long lasting. Give this test immediately after the preceding test. The set-up is identical to the short term memory test. Make sure, however, that you place the tidbit in a different corner than the one you used for the short-term memory test. Take Lassie out of the room and keep her out of the room for five minutes. Then return her to the center of the room, slip off the leash, and start the stopwatch.

Scoring
If Lassie goes directly to the bait, score 5.
If she goes to the corner where the first bait was and then quickly goes to the correct corner, score 4.
If she systematically sniffs around the edge of the room and finds the tidbit, score 3.
If she seems to search in a random fashion but still finds the tidbit within 45 seconds, score 2.
If she appears to try to find the tidbit but still hasn’t succeeded after 45 seconds, score 1.
If she makes no effort to find the bait, score 0.

Environmental memory
This next test looks at environmental memory, which simply means how well your dog remembers the world around her. While Lassie is out of the house, rearrange the furniture in a roo that is familiar to her. For example, you could bring a few additional chairs into the room, move a large piece of furniture toward the center of the room, place a coffee table in an odd corner, move a side table to the center of the room, or create several other obvious disturbances of the usual pattern of furniture placement. Try to make sure that at least five things are obviously different in the room. Then bring Lassie into the room and start your stopwatch while you stand quietly.

Scoring
If Lassie notices something is different within 15 seconds and starts to explore or sniff any changed aspect of the room, score 5.
If she notices the differences and checks out any one changed aspect of the room in 15 to 30 seconds, score 4.
If she does so in thirty to sixty seconds, score 3.
If she looks around cautiously, seems to notice something is different, but does not explore any changed aspect of the room, score 2.
If a minute passes, and she still ignores the changes, score 1.

Alternate choice memory
The final test involves alternate choice memory, or how well the dog remembers one of several possibilities. For this test, you need three identical, empty tin cans or plastic cups. Rub the inside of each with the tidbit of food that you will be using as bait, so that Lassie can’t use smell to guide her choice. Next, while she watches, show her the empty cans and arrange them in a row upside-down with about one foot (30 cm) between each. With exaggerated movements, show her the treat, then lift the middle can and place the treat under it. Slip the leash off and let her go. Whether she actually gets the treat or not by knocking over the can is irrelevant for this test, but note the attention that she pays to each can.

Scoring
If Lassie goes directly to the middle can, score 5.
If she goes to one of the outside cans first, then shifts her attention and starts nosing the middle can while ignoring the others, score 4.
If she sniffs at all three cans and then returns to pay attention to the middle can, score 3.
If she circles the cans sniffing or poking at each indiscriminately, score 2.
If she wanders around or ignores the cans, score 1.

What the score means
Add the scores from the four tests. If your dog scores 17 to 20, her memory is extremely good. Scores from 13 to 16 are above average, while 9 to 12 are average. Scores of 6 to 8 are borderline, while scores of 5 or less would place a dog in the bottom 10 percent of all dogs.

Although it is simply fun to know how good your dog’s memory is, it is also a useful thing to measure your dog’s memory when she is a healthy adult. You will then have a score to use as a reference to see if your dog’s memory is declining as she grows older.

If your dog’s memory is good, it will be easier for her to learn. If your dog’s memory is bad, it will be easier for her to forget that she was pinched or pulled by a particular child. She will also be less likely to remember that she should be still bearing a grudge against you for a late dinner or a missed walk-or that last trip to the vet. ■

Stanley Coren is Professor of Psychology at the University of British Columbia and author of several books on dogs, including The Intelligence of Dogs and How Dogs Think. His website is stanleycoren.com

This article is from the Modern Dog Website-http://www.moderndogmagazine.com/articles/your-dog-genius/145

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Puppy Mouthing and Nipping for Australian Labradoodles

Tuesday, May 5th, 2009

We frequently get questions about puppies mouthing and nipping – the below is an article with some good tips.

NIPPING THE HAND THAT FEEDS YOU

This article is in response to the many, many, questions I have received about nipping problems in puppies. It’s a common problem. I hope the following will help explain why it is so common and how to turn the behavior into something more agreeable for everyone.

WHY PUPPIES NIP:

Dogs live their life without our most useful “tool” – opposable thumbs. We can grasp and hold things to feel and examine them; dogs use their mouths to explore their world. Puppies have a lot to learn. Not only do they have to learn how to be dogs, but they also must learn how to live with humans. That can be the hardest part! We, as humans, also have to learn somewhat how dogs work, and the communication gap can be enormous!

One of the biggest tools puppies have to learn with is their mouth – not only for vocalization, but to touch and feel and explore…and test their limits! Think about a litter of puppies playing. They are rough and tumble – they bite, nibble, and bark. If one puppy bites another too hard, the bitten puppy lets out a screech which usually is successful in getting the hard nipper to temper his bites. This is how they LEARN, and a BIG part of learning is DOING IT WRONG! This is how anyone, including a puppy, can learn to DO IT RIGHT. If a puppy isn’t doing something wrong, he cannot be shown what right is.

Puppies will test their limits with you, too. Nipping and mouthing is a big part of that testing. They mouth and grab hands, pant legs, skirts, etc. Part of how you teach a puppy to temper their biting lies back with how his litter mates taught him – a shrill shriek “OW!!” to let him know he’s gone too far – even if it didn’t hurt that much. One thing that you are responsible for training this puppy – that should start EARLY- is that UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES should that puppy’s teeth touch your bare skin. Now, I know Lab owners are going to say “my puppy enjoys taking my hand into his mouth sometimes”. Dogs understand ALWAYS or NEVER, YES or NO. They do not understand SOMETIMES and MAYBE! You will be giving your dog too much human reasoning by letting him decide when it is appropriate to take your hand in his mouth or to nibble your hand!

WAYS TO TEACH “NICE”
I like the word “nice” or “easy” when I teach a dog to respect my skin. If my puppy gets wild and nippy, I will take his collar (after I let out a big “Ow!!” for nipping too hard) and give it a little tug and offer my hand back to the puppy and tell him, in a firm voice, “NO, NICE!” If the puppy nips again, I repeat the command and tug a little firmer, “I said “NO, NICE!” If the puppy licks your hand, sniffs it, or turns his head away, I tell him “Good, NICE!!” and make sure my voice sounds pleased. Each time the puppy gets away with a nip without working your “NICE” command means he has learned that he can, in fact, get away with nipping – and he will continue to do it.
 
 

 

You can also “set up” teaching “NICE” to your dog (as opposed to waiting for it to happen). I get a bunch of small, soft treats (small and soft means that the puppy will not forget why he got the treat if all he has to do is swallow it. He will forget if you give him a biscuit and it takes him 3 minutes to chew it up!) and hold one in the fingers of one hand. In the other hand – I have the puppy’s collar, and he is sitting close to me. I offer the treat to the puppy and remind him that we are being “NICE”. If he lunges for the treat, I give him a tug on his collar and remind him, “NO, NICE!” The same goes if he grabs the treat and any part of my hand or fingers. (Note: the hand that is holding the treat remains stationary It is the hand holding the puppy that will move and tug the puppy away from the food. If you move your “food hand”, you will encourage the puppy to chase the treat – dogs like moving objects.) With this exercise, the puppy will eventually learn to take the treat without even touching your skin with his teeth.

HEADING OFF TROUBLE:
Now, after all this – some big “NO NOs” that will undermine your attempts to have what we call “bite inhibition” (in other words, what you were just taught to teach your puppy). NEVER, NEVER, play hand games that will rile up your puppy and encourage him to lunge for your hand, or any other part of your body. That is not part of teaching ALWAYS or NEVER! Chase games, especially for herding dogs (German Shepherds, Bouviers, Collies, Shelties, Border Collies, Corgis, etc.) will also encourage them to nip and bite at legs and heels. Not good! The best games to play are games involving fetch and toys. One trainer says that any time you play with your dog, make sure you have a toy between you and the puppy. NEVER play tug of war with your puppy – that will only make your puppy think of himself as your equal! The only time I will play tug of war is when I have a wimpy puppy – but I always start the game, and I always finish it too. I also make sure I have taught my puppy a firm “Out” , “Release”, or “Drop it!” command to make sure I don’t have a problem or confrontation when I want the toy back.
 
 

 

Remember, you’re in charge!
Your puppy looks to you for consistent – and persistent - training.

Pam Young, LVT CDBC CPDT  
Dog Gone Good LLC
Dog Behavior Consultant
Personal Dog Trainer
Copyright 1996- 2006, Pam Young 
Dog Training Basics
www.dogtrainingbasics.com 
All Rights Reserved

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Manor Lake Marley At Play

Monday, May 4th, 2009
Hey Kim and Mollie!!!!
Just wanted give you a quick update. Marley is just over 6 months now and about 30 pounds. He is doing wonderfully! We are now in the intermediate obedience class and doing lots of work off leash and he is excelling! We have taken Marley on a few trips to the river or lake, and he totally LOVES the water! The other weekend we had him out at our parents house; they have a creek a short distance from their house so we decided to take the dogs on a walk to go exploring. It had to be one of the funnier things I have ever seen! Marley and their dog Daisy (a HIGH energy Boston terrier) played for hours! We were skipping rocks and they would chase them, running through the creek like torpedoes!!! I had no idea he had that kind of speed behind him!!! It was all great, other than the at least 2 hours we spent picking the twigs, leaves, dirt and other wildlife from his fur! Do you guys get funny stories of things pulled from puppies fur???…The other night, I must have dropped some orzo, which Marley must have then rolled in… I was picking orzo from his coat for days!!!
We are enjoying him soooooo much! I tell you all the time, but he has absolutely exceeded any expectations we had!!! Both of us are wanting to get him a play mate as soon as things settle down. We have been keeping up with all of the expecting litters trying to decide what size and color we want (we want them all!). Hopefully things will settle down soon :-)
I attached a bunch of pictures from a few recent trips we have taken.
Thanks for everything and hopefully we will be talking to you soon about a play mate!!
Kelly, Cole & Marley
Virginia
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