Archive for the ‘Labradoodle Advice’ Category

Introducing your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle to other pets

Wednesday, September 1st, 2010

Introducing your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle to your other pets is an important introduction, below is an article from The Humane Society on tips about how to make a proper introduction.

Introducing a Dog to Other Pets

The Humane Society of the United States- November 3, 2009

From “the leader of the pack” to “the top dog,” plenty of simplistic metaphors come from the canine world. But relationships between canines can be pretty complex, beginning with the very first meeting.

Like most animals who live in groups, dogs establish their own social structure, sometimes called a dominance hierarchy. This dominance hierarchy serves to maintain order, reduce conflict and promote cooperation among pack members.

Dogs also establish territories, which they may defend against intruders or rivals. Of course, dogs’ social and territorial nature affects their behavior whenever a new dog is introduced to the household.

Choose a neutral location

Introduce the dogs in a neutral location so that your resident dog is less likely to view the newcomer as a territorial intruder. Each dog should be handled by a separate person. With both dogs on leashes, begin the introductions in an area unfamiliar to each, such as a park or a neighbor’s yard. If you frequently walk your resident dog in a nearby park, she may view that area as her territory, too, so choose a less familiar site. If you are adopting your dog from an animal shelter, you might even bring your resident dog to the local shelter and introduce the two there (some shelters may even require that a new dog meets the resident dog before the adoption is complete).

Use positive reinforcement

From the first meeting, help both dogs experience “good things” when they’re in each other’s presence. Let them sniff each other briefly, which is normal canine greeting behavior. As they do, talk to them in a happy, friendly tone of voice; never use a threatening tone. (Don’t allow them to investigate and sniff each other for too long, however, as this may escalate to an aggressive response.)

After a short time, get the attention of both dogs and give each a treat in return for obeying a simple command, such as “sit” or “stay.” Take the dogs for a walk and let them sniff and investigate each other at intervals. Continue with the “happy talk,” food rewards, and simple commands.

Be aware of body postures

One body posture that indicates things are going well is a “play-bow.” One dog will crouch with her front legs on the ground and her hind end in the air. This is an invitation to play, and a posture that usually elicits friendly behavior from the other dog. Watch carefully for body postures that indicate an aggressive response, including hair standing up on one dog’s back, teeth-baring, deep growls, a stiff-legged gait, or a prolonged stare. If you see such postures, interrupt the interaction immediately by calmly getting each dog interested in something else.

For example, both handlers can call their dogs to them, have them sit or lie down, and reward each with a treat. The dogs’ interest in the treats should prevent the situation from escalating into aggression. Try letting the dogs interact again, but this time for a shorter time period and/or at a greater distance from each other.

Taking the dogs home

When the dogs seem to be tolerating each other’s presence without fearful or aggressive responses, and the investigative greeting behaviors have tapered off, you can take them home. Whether you choose to take them in the same vehicle will depend on their size, how well they ride in the car, how trouble-free the initial introduction has been, and how many dogs are involved.

If you have more than one resident dog in your household, it may be best to introduce the resident dogs to the new dog one at a time. Two or more resident dogs may have a tendency to “gang up” on the newcomer.

It is important to support the dominant dog in your household, even if that turns out to be the newcomer. This may mean, for example, allowing the dominant dog to claim a special toy or favored sleeping spot as his own. Trying to impose your preference for which dog should be dominant can confuse the dogs and create further problems.

Introducing puppies to adult dogs

Puppies usually pester adult dogs unmercifully. Before the age of four months, puppies may not recognize subtle body postures from adult dogs signaling that they’ve had enough. Well-socialized adult dogs with good temperaments may set limits with puppies with a warning growl or snarl. These behaviors are normal and should be allowed.

Adult dogs who aren’t well-socialized, or who have a history of fighting with other dogs, may attempt to set limits with more aggressive behaviors, such as biting, which could harm the puppy. For this reason, a puppy shouldn’t be left alone with an adult dog until you’re confident the puppy isn’t in any danger. Be sure to give the adult dog some quiet time away from the puppy, and some extra individual attention as well.

When to get help

If the introductions don’t go smoothly, contact a professional animal behaviorist immediately. Dogs can be severely injured in fights, and the longer the problem continues, the harder it can be to resolve. Punishment won’t work, and could make things worse. Fortunately, most conflicts between dogs in the same family can be resolved with professional guidance.

Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado. All rights reserved.

Reading with your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle

Monday, August 23rd, 2010

Read with your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle- this is an article from PetMD online about read-to-animals. The Australian Labradoodle is a great therapy companion, maybe its something you want to look into with your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle!

Books and Bones
The Benefits of Reading to Animals


by CECILIA DE CARDENAS

August 3, 2010

When you try to think of someone who would exercise the least amount of judgment upon others, few come to mind. It’s in our nature to opine on others, much as it is in a dog’s nature to wag its tail when it’s paid even the least bit of attention. Dogs are simply a different story. To quote from John Grogan’s bestseller Marley & Me about his relationship with his own loyal labrador, “A dog doesn’t care if you are rich or poor, educated or illiterate, clever or dull. Give him your heart and he will give you his.”

That’s what makes programs like the Reading Education Assistance Dogs (R.E.A.D.) program so brilliant. R.E.A.D. aims to build confidence in children and strengthen their communication skills by providing therapy dogs for them to read to out loud. Results from the program boast an overall improvement in test scores, all while building the child’s self-esteem.

If you’re wondering how the concept works, think back to your own school days. For some, reading out loud was a source of embarrassment and shame. Schoolchildren could often be cruel, ridiculing their peers’ troubles instead of encouraging them to overcome. Many children give up on reading altogether and relent their turn to read out loud to the next student. Now think: what if your only audience while reading out loud had been a dog? Without the scrutiny and vulnerability to mockery, reading out loud may have been a pleasurable experience. With time and practice, reading level and self-assurance increase, and a sense of worth and accomplishment is earned.

The program began in 1999 as a part of Intermountain Therapy Animals (ITA). The idea was conceptualized by Sandi Martin, a member of ITA, who wondered how she could bring therapy animals into a literary setting. Thus the program was launched, and now, eleven years later, R.E.A.D. groups have expanded to schools and libraries in Canada and the United Kingdom.

The dogs used in the program come in all shapes and sizes – they are selected for their temperament rather than for their breed. R.E.A.D. dogs are usually mild mannered and patient, calm and well groomed. Other animals have been used in the program as well, from rabbits to guinea pigs to parrots.

Children participating in the program are given animal-centric books and typically learn about their canine companion while building their reading skills. This enables a complete learning experience, making reading a highly enjoyable and memorable encounter.

Similar programs have sprung up across the nation, stemming from local branches of the Humane Society, pet rescue organizations, or using other animals. I Read To Animals, a part of the Best Friends Animal Society, has achieved great success in four different states using a variety of different animals. The Black Stallion Literacy Project, started by Tim Farley, son of Walter Farley, author of the Black Stallion books, focuses on using horses as a child’s audience as the child explores Farley’s books by reading them out loud to their equine companions. Children involved in the program also learn about horses, from anatomy to care and grooming.

So if your child is having difficulty reading, or you notice a decrease in your child’s self-confidence, consider having them participate in a read-to-animals program this school year. Though R.E.A.D. groups may not expand to all corners of the world, yet, it may not surprise you to find that your local animal rescue or shelter may have a similar program of its own. The benefits of reading to animals are, without a doubt, something to bark about.

How To Introduce Your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle to Water

Tuesday, August 17th, 2010

This is a helpful article from The Dog Guide online about how to introduce your dog to water!

Introducing your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle to Water

This summer when you head to the beach, lake or pond, why not bring your dog along? Many dogs flock to bodies of water and love to swim; some a little too much! (Our dog Reef went swimming in the ocean at the beach in Florida one year, and decided to steal someone’s football and swim out into the ocean with it.) Swimming is an excellent form of exercise and play for any dog. And the great thing is that any body of water safe for you to swim in is safe for your dog as well.

There are some safety precautions to consider before you jump in- paws first. While many dogs enjoy swimming, others simply can’t swim or dislike/fear the water. It is important to know your dog’s personality and behaviors before attempting to get him to swim. On the flip side, swimming is an excellent form of exercise for dogs with physical limitations or injuries, be it old joints, too much weight, or hip replacement surgery.

To introduce your dog to the water for the first time, be prepared to get wet! Enter the water and coax your dog in by calling to her in an upbeat way. You can use treats or throw floating toys to encourage her to enter. Also, ‘monkey see, monkey do’ works well in these cases; having another dog happily swimming around will definitely encourage your pup to take the plunge. If your dog is hesitant, take a break and try again later. Never, ever throw your dog into the water. This will only increase your dog’s anxiety and will most likely turn her off to the idea of swimming completely.

If your dog enters and begins to swim, great! Encourage him verbally and keep a close eye on him. Swimming is a different kind of exercise- the first few sessions should be kept short to acclimate him to the new exertion. Once he gets used to the new sensations you’ll never see a more enthusiastic doggie paddle! Remember to never leave your dog alone in a body of water. To prevent your dog from swimming too far away, use a long cotton lead. They’re light, don’t get slippery in water, and give your dog enough length to have fun while still keeping him in sight.

If you’re planning on making swimming a regular part of your dog’s routine, a canine life preserver may be a very valuable purchase. These can help keep your dog afloat if she’s are accidentally knocked into the water or if she becomes tired quickly while swimming.

After an aquatic workout, offer your pooch some clean water. Drinking seawater, or even fresh water from a pond/river, can make a dog sick- be sure to have fresh water on hand. Rinsing a dog off after a swim in the ocean is advisable as the salt and minerals are rough on the coat and pads.

Wherever you choose to venture into the water, remember to bring an extra towel!


Go Camping with Your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle

Thursday, July 29th, 2010

The Bark is one of our favorite magazines, recently online they posted this fun article about camping with your pet, we thought it would be fun to share with our Manor Lake families. Summertime is of course the most ideal time of year for camping!

The Simple Life: Camping—The Ultimate Dog-Friendly Vacation
By Jenna Woginrich

I’m fairly certain there are few experiences that compare to a campfire, a good guitar, close friends and a great dog. A clear night with wood smoke circling up into the trees while your dog lies at your feet beats Walden Pond any day, hands down. Getting away from the office and streetlights and spending a few days as nomads under the Milky Way grants us dog owners a perfect summer vacation option — a chance to slow down and spend a lot of time with our favorite animals.

Camping is the original dog-friendly vacation. Unlike hotels and busy sightseeing jaunts, the great outdoors always provides respite for people who want to get away and bring the dog as well. Camping is also inexpensive, relatively close to home, and with a little planning can be pulled off without a hitch. Most owners used to traveling with their dogs are already hard-wired for the sort of preparations needed to jump into the wild. But there are some extra precautions one should take before letting Lucy off the leash.

First, make sure you can let Lucy off the leash. Some campers are shocked to discover that the dog-friendly campground they found online doesn’t allow their 15-year-old Golden Retriever off-leash, ever. It doesn’t matter if he’s a CGC-toting therapy dog or Cujo’s succubus — all dogs must be on leash at all times. If you planned on letting your dog leap off the docks into the lake, chase balls on a beach or sprawl in front of the campfire, you may end up with a pouting Les Miserables extra on a time out. So call ahead and make sure the park or property’s idea of camping with dogs matches your own.

Second, be aware that while some parks and campgrounds may not mention any prerequisites for canine reservations on their land, they may make certain demands when you show up. Make sure you have proof of rabies vaccination (vet documentation, not just tags) and any other paperwork that proves your animals are sound. Some parks demand it and will turn you away without it.
Third, keep in mind that even though you are staying in the wilderness for a few days, certain civilities still apply. When it comes to cleaning up after your dog, a good rule to follow is the public bathroom rule: If you are expected to use a toilet, then your dog is expected to have a plastic bag. If there hasn’t been a bathroom in sight for three days on a backpacking trip along the Appalachian Trail, the Ziplocs can probably stay in your pack.

Most of all, enjoy this time with your dog. You may not realize it in your nature-loving haze, but by choosing to camp you’re giving your dog the gift of you. He can be around you all day—hitting the trails or cooking dinner back at HQ. The constant quality time, undistracted by cell phones and Facebook, will be savored by your companion. I have a hunch it will be savored by you as well. A little escape is good for the soul and great for your dog. After all, nothing comes between you and that tennis ball now.

To view this article online please click here.

Packing a first aid kit for your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle

Tuesday, July 6th, 2010

We follow @FindAVet on Twitter and found this helpful article on their website, its all about how to pack a good first aid kit for your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle.

Packing a first aid kit for your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle

We often have first aid kits on hand for ourselves, but many pet parents are now seeing the value of keeping them around for animal emergencies, too. There are literally dozens of good first aid kits for our four-legged companions on the market, but it’s also easy to create your own. And if you take your pooch on trips a lot, you may even want to make two: one for home and one to leave in the car that’s customized to the types of hobbies you do with your dog.

There are a few important design elements to keep in mind when selecting a bag or carrying case to use for your first aid kit. First, pick out something that’s either waterproof or water-resistant so everything inside stays safe. Next, make sure the case opens and closes easily and that it stays securely fastened. You’ll also want to think ahead and know what you’re going to put inside so you can ensure it’s big enough to hold everything!

Gear the items you pack in your kit primarily toward minor injuries, like scrapes and cuts, although products that help out in a disaster situation (such as splints) while transporting your dog to an emergency hospital are OK, too. For serious medical emergencies always seek the assistance of a veterinarian. In fact, one of the first things that needs to go in the bag is an emergency phone number list that includes your vet, after-hours emergency vet (if different from your regular doctor), and a poison control hotline, such as the ASPCA’s Animal Poison Control Center at 888-426-4435.

It’s a good idea to have some first aid or dog safety books featuring instructions on handling specific medical situations and CPR. If you’re on vacation, consider printing out directions to the closest veterinary hospital of where you’re staying.

Planning ahead when you’re traveling isn’t such a bad idea anyway, especially if you’re going somewhere unfamiliar to the family. If camping, for instance, it never hurts to call ahead and find out if you need to worry about things like poison ivy, poison oak, snakes, coyotes, etc. If you’re going somewhere that might be tough on a dog’s feet, such as hiking trails, hot sand or pavement, consider fitting your dog with canine booties. (Make sure she’ll wear them, though. Wearing shoes may require some getting used to on her part.)

For hot weather, keep lots of water and a drinking bowl nearby. Your dog needs to stay hydrated, of course, but water can also help clean up a wound or, in the event of extreme heat, you can pour it over her to cool her down. A cooling vest or scarf may be in order for these situations, too. In general, try to take it easy in the heat by not participating in any strenuous activities to begin with. It’s not worth the risk of heat stroke.

If you’re going somewhere cold, don’t forget that even though they are covered in fur (some more than others) dogs can get chilly, too. You may need to bring an extra blanket just for her or even a T-shirt or jacket for extra warmth.

Once you have a bag and some phone numbers, here are some suggestions for a basic first aid kit. You can tailor kits to your specific hobbies, such as hiking, camping or hunting.

Some Suggestions:

Medications: If your dog requires any regular medications, double check to make sure you pack them prior to leaving for a trip.

A thermometer and a small jar of petroleum jelly: If your dog is not feeling well or having a reaction to hot or cold weather, it may become necessary to take her temperature. In this case, you’ll need to apply a small amount of Vaseline on the thermometer and insert it into her rectum, states Petwave.com. A dog’s normal temperature ranges from 100.5 to 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit.

Bandage material: This would include gauze pads, cotton gauze, adhesive tape and masking tape, recommends ehow.com.

Muzzle: In case your dog becomes aggressive if injured or in shock. “This item is a must in preventing your pet from defensively biting you while you attend to the injury,” writes WomansDay.com. “Even the sweetest of our furry friends can bite when frightened or in pain.”

Small Flashlight: In addition to the extra light you’ll need if anything happens at night, a flashlight can help check for injuries. “A small flashlight can be used to check for any injuries within the mouth or any objects or materials that could be blocking respiration in the upper part of the throat,” writes Petwave.

Current photo: In case you and your dog get separated, you will need a picture to show people and to help identify her.

Styptic powder: For minor cuts and scrapes. “This helps stop the bleeding from a broken or torn nail, and is sold at most pet stores,” reports WomansDay.com. “You dip the nail into the powder to help form a clot.” Sometimes cornstarch or flour has also been known to work.

Disposable latex gloves: In case you need to handle or touch anything bleeding, oozing or unsanitary.

Saline Solution: Can flush out wounds or eyes.

Tweezers: To remove any thorns, foxtails, stickers, ticks, etc. When removing a tick, try to make sure the insect’s head comes out, too. “Avoid using your hands to remove a tick because of the risk of tick-borne diseases,” suggests WomansDay.com.

Anti-allergy medication: If your dog has allergies, especially to things like bees, you’ll want to include something to help combat this. Consult your vet on what’s best for your dog.

Anti-bacterial ointment: To help keep minor scratches, scrapes and abrasions free of infection.

Cold/heat packs: To place on an injury. These can help ease pain and/or swelling.

Towel or blanket: To mop up any wounds or accidents; it will also cover a cold or heat pack before placing on your dog’s skin. There are other uses, too, such as using them as a “stretcher, another [towel or blanket] to keep your dog warm during transport (some pharmacies and camping outlets carry a thermal blanket)” reports PetEducation.com.

Antiseptic wipes: To disinfect wounds.

Hydrogen peroxide and plastic syringe: Hydrogen peroxide can help induce vomiting. “Only use this emetic when warranted, such as if a veterinarian or poison control center tells you to immediately administer it. Purchase a syringe from a pharmacy or a veterinarian that is the right size for your pets,” reports Petwave.com. Hydrogen peroxide is also helpful in cleaning up wounds.

Activated charcoal: These are used to “absorb ingested poisons (consult your veterinarian before using),” writes PetEducation.com.

Eyedroppers: For dispensing liquid medication and cleaning out minor cuts and wounds, recommends ehow.com.

Those can help get you started, but a more thorough list is provided here:
Paw Print Bullet Veterinary phone numbers and directions
Paw Print Bullet Poison control hotline phone numbers
Paw Print Bullet Medications
Paw Print Bullet Vaccination records
Paw Print Bullet First aid book and CPR instructions
Paw Print Bullet Tweezers
Paw Print Bullet Scissors
Paw Print Bullet Magnifying glass
Paw Print Bullet Nail clippers
Paw Print Bullet Flashlight
Paw Print Bullet Extra collar and leash
Paw Print Bullet Eye dropper
Paw Print Bullet Syringe
Paw Print Bullet Cotton balls
Paw Print Bullet Cotton swabs
Paw Print Bullet Thermometer
Paw Print Bullet Clean towels
Paw Print Bullet Disposable latex gloves
Paw Print Bullet Anti-licking products (such as bitter-tasting products that are safe to put directly on dogs—but not the injury!)
Paw Print Bullet Cold/heat packs
Paw Print Bullet Stethoscope
Paw Print Bullet Gauze
Paw Print Bullet First aid tape
Paw Print Bullet High-sugar source (for diabetic dogs)
Paw Print Bullet Eye wash
Paw Print Bullet Ear cleaner
Paw Print Bullet Saline solution
Paw Print Bullet Anti-diarrhea medication
Paw Print Bullet Cortisone
Paw Print Bullet Antiseptic wipes
Paw Print Bullet Styptic powder
Paw Print Bullet Lubricant, such as petroleum jelly
Paw Print Bullet Collapsible water bowl
Paw Print Bullet Bottled water
Paw Print Bullet Muzzle
Paw Print Bullet Antibiotic ointment
Paw Print Bullet Hydrogen peroxide
Paw Print Bullet Activated charcoal
Paw Print Bullet E-collar
Paw Print Bullet Hand cleanser (for you)

To be on the safe side, it’s probably best to keep a first aid kit in the house and in the car at all times. However, if that’s not possible, make your pup’s safety a priority when traveling and make sure you don’t leave without some sort of first aid kit, even if it’s a basic one. A little thinking ahead can help prevent a disaster or, at the very least, help a little ouchie from becoming a big pain.

To view this article in full on findavet.us please click here.

Luxury Pet Care Resort To Open At Walt Disney World

Tuesday, June 29th, 2010

How cool is this? You can now take your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle with you when you travel to Walt Disney World. Thought it would be fun to share with everyone, if you go- please let us know how the stay is!

Luxury Pet Care Resort To Open At Walt Disney World

by Deidre Woollard (RSS feed) Jun 27th 2010 at 10:02AM


Your pets don’t have to be left out when you go to Walt Disney World. The new Best Friends Pet Care Resort will start accepting pets starting August 27. The property is more than 50,000 square feet of indoor and outdoor space, including 17,000 square feet of air-conditioned indoor space, 10,000 square feet of covered outdoor runs and play areas and a private dog park. There is a grooming salon that offers baths and haircuts. The facility will accommodate up to 270 dogs and 30 cats for both daytime and overnight boarding.

Options for dogs include air-conditioned indoor rooms, indoor-outdoor suites, and four larger VIP suites with television, raised bedding and private outdoor yards. The dog park includes a fenced walking trail that has various play areas offering artificial turf, a shaded place to play and even a water park. There are also areas for owners to sit and watch their dogs frolic. Dog owners can choose upgrades like bottled water, ice cream treats and private time with the staff that can include cuddle time and bedtime stories.

Cats will be off in “Kitty City” which has two and four-level condos. Cats can also receive private playtime, activities toys and special treats. There is also a special facility for boarding hamsters, guinea pigs, rabbits, ferrets and other small animals. The pet resort is located across from the Port Orleans Resort at 2510 Bonnet Creek Parkway in Lake Buena Vista, FL 32830.

Both daycare and longer stays are available and rates vary depending on services. Top of the line VIP service with two potty walks, two playgroups, a flat screen TV, webcam,bedtime story and a Go Home Fresh bath costs $76.

Protect Your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle From Fleas

Friday, June 18th, 2010

With nearly 2,000 species and subspecies, fleas thrive in warm, humid environments, and feed on the blood of their hosts. Dogs play host to the cat flea (Ctenocephalides felis), whose dark brown or black body is usually one to three millimeters in length.

Why Are Dogs Susceptible to Fleas?

Fleas are hearty and nimble, and when searching for a host, they can jump 10,000 times in a row (the length of three football fields). Three pairs of legs make for excellent leaping capabilities (up to two feet), and a laterally flattened body allows for quick movement in a dog’s fur.

With a complete life cycle ranging anywhere from 16 days to 21 months, depending on environmental conditions, fleas are most commonly found on a dog’s abdomen, the base of the tail and the head. With heavy infestations, however, fleas can thrive anywhere on the body. They feed once every day or two, and generally remain on their host during the interim.

What Are Some Signs of Fleas in Dogs?

  • Droppings or “flea dirt” in a dog’s coat
  • Flea eggs on dog or in dog’s environment
  • Allergic dermatitis
  • Excessive scratching, licking or biting at skin
  • Hair loss
  • Scabs and hot spots
  • Pale gums
  • Tapeworms

What Are Some Complications of Fleas in Dogs?

Since fleas can consume 15 times their own body weight in blood, they can cause anemia or a significant amount of blood loss over time. This is especially problematic in young puppies, where an inadequate number of red blood cells can be life-threatening to some dogs. Signs of parasitic anemia include pale gums, cold body temperature and listlessness.

When a dog has a heightened sensitivity to the saliva of fleas, just one bite of a flea can cause an allergic reaction. This condition is known as flea allergy dermatitis and causes intense itching and discomfort for your dog. Signs include generalized hair loss, reddened skin, scabs and hot spots. Flea allergy dermatitis often leads to skin infections.

Are Certain Dogs Prone to Fleas?

Dogs who live in warm, humid climates, where fleas thrive at temperatures of 65 to 80 degrees, and those who live outdoors are most vulnerable to fleas.

What Should I Do If I Think My Dog Has Fleas?

Consult your veterinarian, who will confirm the diagnosis and discuss appropriate treatment options. It is important to tailor your treatment to your pet and his environment, since certain products in combination can be toxic. Your veterinarian can also determine the best plan for preventing fleas in the future.

How Do I Treat Fleas?

  • It is important that all of your pets are treated for fleas, including indoor and outdoor cats, and that the environment is treated as well.
  • Speak with your veterinarian about choosing the right flea treatment product. Common options include a topical, liquid treatment applied to the back of the neck, shampoos, sprays and powders. Some products kill both adult fleas and their eggs, but they can vary in efficacy. It is very important not to use products on your dog that are intended for cats (and vice versa). Prescription products are generally more effective and safer than over-the-counter products.
  • Thoroughly clean your house, including rugs, bedding and upholstery. (Remember to discard any vacuum bags.) In severe cases, you might consider using a spray or fogger, which requires temporary evacuation of the home.

How Can I Prevent Fleas?

Using a flea comb on your dog and washing his bedding once a week will go a long way toward controlling flea infestation. Also, it is important to treat your yard as thoroughly as your house. Concentrate on shady areas, where fleas live, and use an insecticide or nematodes, microscopic worms that kill flea larvae.

WebMD Veterinary Reference from ASPCA Virtual Pet Behaviorist

The ASPCA Virtual Pet Behaviorist specializes in the resolution and management of pet behavior problems only. Please do not submit questions about medical problems here. Only licensed veterinarians can diagnose medical conditions. If you think that your pet is sick, injured or experiencing any kind of physical distress, please contact his veterinarian immediately. A delay in seeking proper veterinary care may worsen your pet’s condition and put his life at risk. If you are concerned about the cost of veterinary care, please read our resources on finding financial help.

© 2009 ASPCA. All Rights Reserved.

To see this article on WebMD’s website please click here.

Protect your Manor Lake Austrailan Labradoodle by purchasing a flea preventative today. We have K9 Advantix available in our Manor Lake Dog Boutique.

Grade Your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodles Dog Food

Wednesday, June 9th, 2010

What kind of dog food should I feed my Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle? Is a common question we’re asked, below is some information on how to grade dog food, it provides a detailed list of how many dog food brands scored. Remember feeding your pet a high quality dog food is very important to their health and well being. This information is from Play Dog Excellent’s Website- click here to see the article on their site.

How to grade your dog’s kibble (dry food): Start with a grade of 100, then:

  • For every listing of “by-product“, subtract 10 points
  • For every non-specific animal source (“meat” or “poultry”, meat, meal or fat) reference, subtract 10 points
  • If the food contains BHA, BHT, or ethoxyquin, subtract 10 points
  • For every grain “mill run” or non-specific grain source, subtract 5 points
  • If the same grain ingredient is used 2 or more times in the first five ingredients (i.e. “ground brown rice”, “brewers rice”, “rice flour” are all the same grain), subtract 5 points
  • If the protein sources are not meat meal and there are less than 2 meats in the top 3 ingredients, subtract 3 points
  • If it contains any artificial colorants, subtract 3 points
  • If it contains ground corn or whole grain corn, subtract 3points
  • If corn is listed in the top 5 ingredients, subtract 2 more points
  • If the food contains any animal fat other than fish oil, subtract 2 points
  • If lamb is the only animal protein source (unless your dog is allergic to other protein sources), subtract 2 points
  • If it contains soy or soybeans, subtract 2 points
  • If it contains wheat (unless you know that your dog is not allergic to wheat), subtract 2 points
  • If it contains beef (unless you know that your dog is not allergic to beef), subtract 1 point
  • If it contains salt (sodium chloride), subtract 1 point

Extra Credit:

  • If any of the meat sources are organic, add 5 points
  • If the food is endorsed by any major breed group or nutritionist, add 5 points
  • If the food is baked not extruded, add 5 points
  • If the food contains probiotics, add 3 points
  • If the food contains fruit, add 3 points
  • If the food contains vegetables (NOT corn or other grains), add 3 points
  • If the animal sources are hormone-free and antibiotic-free, add 2 points
  • If the food contains barley, add 2 points
  • If the food contains flax seed oil (not just the seeds), add 2 points
  • If the food contains oats or oatmeal, add 1 point
  • If the food contains sunflower oil, add 1 point
  • For every different specific animal protein source (other than the first one; count “chicken” and “chicken meal” as only one protein source, but “chicken” and “” as 2 different sources), add 1 point
  • If it contains glucosamine and chondroitin, add 1 point
  • If the vegetables have been tested for pesticides and are pesticide-free, add 1 point

Scoring:

  • 94-100+ = A
  • 86-93 = B
  • 78-85 = C
  • 70-77 = D
  • 69 and below = F

Here are some foods that have already been scored.

Brand/Formula Score Grade
Merrick Wilderness Blend 127 A+
Nature’s Variety Raw Instinct 122 A+
Innova Large Breed Puppy 122 A+
Dick Van Patten’s Natural Balance Ultra Premium 122 A+
Timberwolf Organics Wild & Natural Dry 120 A+
Nature’s Recipe Healthy Skin Venison and Rice 116 A+
Authority Harvest Baked 116 A+
Chicken Soup Senior 115 A+
Innova Evo 114 A+
Innova Dog 114 A+
Artemis Large/Medium Breed Puppy 114 A+
Canidae 112 A+
Wellness Super5 Mix Chicken 110 A+
Kirkland Signature Chicken, Rice, and Vegetables 110 A+
Premium Edge Chicken, Rice and Vegetables Adult Dry 109 A+
Burns Chicken and Brown Rice 107 A+
Royal Canin Natural Blend Adult 106 A+
Foundations 106 A+
Dick Van Patten’s Duck and Potato 106 A+
Dick Van Patten’s Natural Balance Venison and Brown Rice 106 A+
Blue Buffalo Chicken and Rice 106 A+
Nutro Ultra Adult 104 A+
Royal Canin Boxer 103 A+
ProPlan Natural Turkey & Barley 103 A+
EaglePack Holistic 102 A+
Nutro Natural Choice Oatmeal 101 A+
Nutrience Junior Medium Breed Puppy 101 A+
Flint River Senior 101 A+
Beowulf Back to Basics 101 A+
Royal Canin Bulldog 100 A+
Nature’s Recipe 100 A
Summit 99 A
Solid Gold 99 A
Diamond Large Breed 60+ Formula 99 A
Nutro Natural Choice Large Breed Lamb and Rice Puppy 98 A
Nutro Natural Choice Lamb and Rice 98 A
Wolfking Adult Dog (bison) by Solid Gold 97 A
Sensible Choice Chicken and Rice 97 A
Nutro Natural Choice Senior 95 A
Pro Plan Sensitive Stomach 94 A
Nutro Max Adult 93 B
Hund-n-Flocken Adult Dog (lamb) by Solid Gold 93 B
Authority Harvest Baked Less Active 93 B
Diamond Lamb Meal & Rice 92 B
Nutro Natural Choice Large Breed Puppy 87 B
Nutrisource Lamb and Rice 87 B
Nutro Natural Choice Puppy Wheat Free 86 B
Diamond Performance 85 C
Member’Mark Chicken and Rice 84 C
Blackwood 3000 Lamb and Rice 83 C
Nutra Nuggets Super Premium Lamb Meal and Rice 81 C
Eukanuba Adult 81 C
Alpo Prime Cuts 81 C
Pro Nature Puppy 80 C
Eukanuba Puppy 79 C
Iams Lamb Meal & Rice Formula Premium 73 D
Science Diet for Large Breed Puppies 69 F
Bil-Jac Select 68 F
Diamond Maintenance 64 F
Science Diet Advanced Protein Senior 7+ 63 F
Purina One Large Breed Puppy 62 F
Purina Dog 62 F
Pet Gold Adult with Lamb & Rice 23 F
Purina Beneful 17 F
Purina Come-n-Get It 16 F

How To Choose The Right Trainer

Thursday, May 6th, 2010

We have gotten some questions from our Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle puppy/dog families about how to select a good trainer- we read through this article from The Humane Society of the United States, and thought it helped provide some great feedback how to choose a good trainer.

Choosing a Dog Trainer

The Humane Society of the United States

Too many dogs are given up after their normal, easily modifiable behaviors are allowed to become problems. But it doesn’t have to be this way.

To prevent your dog from becoming a sad statistic, take your dog—and your family—to a professional dog training class. A good training class is a fun, social activity that helps your dog become a well-behaved, safe, and valued family member. This information will help you find the dog trainer and class environment that best fits your budget and needs.

Why training is a necessity

Whether you are intentionally teaching him or not, your canine friend is always learning—and this is true not just for puppies but also for older, adult dogs. If you do not teach your pet your rules, he will invent his own. Training allows caregivers to safely and humanely control their dog’s behavior. Positive training enhances the bond between dog and owner, and helps ensure that your dog will respond happily to your instructions.

What to look for in a trainer

It’s essential that the dog trainer you select uses humane training techniques that encourage appropriate behavior through such positive reinforcement as food, attention, play, or praise. Look for a trainer who ignores undesirable responses or withholds rewards until the dog behaves appropriately. Training techniques should never involve yelling, choking, shaking the scruff, tugging on the leash, alpha rolling (forcing the dog onto his back), or other actions that frighten or inflict pain.

Where to find a trainer

A recommendation from a friend, neighbor, veterinarian, humane society, boarding kennel, or groomer is a good place to start. You can also search online or check the Yellow Pages under “Pet Training.” Don’t assume that a trainer’s membership in a dog trainer association qualifies him as a suitable instructor: Not all associations’ membership criteria will meet your expectations.

Also, because no government agency regulates or licenses trainers, it’s that much more important to investigate their qualifications before enrolling in a class. Find out how many years of experience they have, how they were educated, and what training methods they use. Ask prospective trainers for several references from clients who completed the classes.

Which class format is best?

In group classes, dogs learn to interact with other dogs, accept handling by other people, and respond to their owners despite distractions. Owners learn by observing other people interacting with their dogs and benefit from the camaraderie. Self-help training, private lessons, and dog-only lessons that exclude the owner do not provide these important advantages. Another disadvantage of dog-only lessons is that the dog may respond well for the trainer but may not transfer what she has learned to you and your family.

When possible, all family members should participate in the dog’s training. By learning to communicate humanely and effectively with their canine friend, they will develop bonds that will form the basis of the entire relationship.

Group classes

Ask the trainer whether you can observe a class in session before signing up. Watch for the following:

  • Is class size limited to allow for individual attention?
  • Are there separate classes for puppies and adult dogs?
  • Are there different class levels (for example, beginner, intermediate, and advanced)?
  • Are training equipment and methods humane?
  • Does the trainer use a variety of methods to meet dogs’ individual needs?
  • Is proof of vaccination required?
  • Are the students, both human and canine, enjoying themselves?
  • Are dogs and owners actively encouraged?
  • Is praise given frequently?
  • Are voice commands given in upbeat tones?
  • Are lesson handouts available?
  • Is information available on how dogs learn, basic grooming, problem solving, and related topics?

The cost of a trainer

Training costs vary, depending on where you live and the type of instruction you want. Private lessons are usually priced per session; many group lessons are priced for several weeks of sessions. Some animal shelters offer subsidized training programs; the price of several weeks of sessions may depend on whether you adopted your dog from that shelter and the number of class sessions it provides.

The best age for training

Although “puppyhood” is the best time to train and socialize dogs, older dogs can learn new tricks, too. In fact, dogs of all ages can benefit from training. Dogs between 8 and 16 weeks of age should be enrolled in puppy classes. Regular classes are appropriate for dogs 6 months or older.

Before you go

When you have selected a training program:

  • Have your dog examined by your veterinarian to ensure your pet is healthy, free from parasites, and up-to-date on vaccinations.
  • Don’t feed your dog a large meal before class because many trainers rely on food treats to encourage or reward desired behavior.
  • Bring the training equipment recommended by the trainer.
  • Practice between classes with brief lessons that end on a positive note.

By enrolling and actively participating in a dog training class, you will help your dog become not just a well-behaved member of your family, but also a safer member of your community.

To view this full article from The Humane Society of the United States click HERE.

10 Things Not To Do in Your vet’s Waiting Room

Tuesday, April 27th, 2010

Another great website that has a lot of information is PetMD.com- they have a lot of articles on pet health and have a blog with interesting articles. We came across this article and thought it was a great one to share with our Manor Lake Austrailan Labradoodle puppy/dog families when visiting the vet.

Top 10 things NOT to do in your veterinarian’s waiting room

Ever walked into a vet’s waiting room only to run smack into an aggressive dog straining against the full length of his Flexi-leash? Or seen a pet owner holding her cat in her lap, otherwise unrestrained? How about the pet owners bringing six dogs at a time, unable to control them all? Or the parent whose four children run amok in the small space.

As with everything in life there is a right way and a wrong way to approach it. The veterinary waiting room is no different.

Sure, veterinary hospitals need to make their waiting areas hospitable, manageable and safe. And when they have little space to work, with the staff should offer alternatives for pet owners whose pets are anxious, aggressive or poorly contained. But that doesn’t mean you get a pass when it comes to exercising some common sense and exhibiting basic courtesy at the vet’s place.

But it’s true that one man’s common sense and courtesy is another’s opportunity for genuine cluelessness. We don’t all know what’s expected of us. That’s why I’ve put together this quick list of what NOT to do in your veterinarian’s waiting room.

#10 Don’t fail to contain your cats. Even if your cat is the sweetest thing on record, some other animals may not agree. The last thing we want is to see in our lobbies is an altercation in which one animal dies. Cat carriers are cheap and widely available. Use them.

#9 Don’t give dogs free reign. The business end of the leash should be in your hands, not at your dog’s head. If you can’t keep him close and controlled then it’s time to ask the receptionist if there’s a better place for your pet to wait.

#8 Don’t use Flexi-leads. OK, so that’s not exactly fair. Flexis have their place. But it’s not at the vet’s. If you must use them, make sure you know how they work and keep your pets in tight.

#7 Don’t do the meet-and-greet thing. The vet’s is not the dog park (although you can find some great ones near you with the PetMD Finder). It’s a strange environment in which pets don’t always act the way you expect them to. Moreover, in a veterinary hospital the onus is on us to keep your dogs safe. Legally, we’re liable if your dogs fight. Please keep pets apart. No matter how well you know your pet, can you honestly say you know someone else’s?

#6 Don’t pet other pets. Again, the vet’s place is a strange and stressful environment. And yes, if you get bit it’s on our dime––not to mention our conscience.

#5 Don’t walk into a packed exam room. If the exam room is wall-to-wall pets, don’t chance it. Make a call on your cell phone or ask someone to let the receptionist know you’re waiting outside.

#4 Don’t fail to tell the receptionist ahead of time if your pet is severely anxious or aggressive. All hospitals appreciate the warning when you make your appointment. It gives us a chance to offer you back-door alternatives or other concessions to your pet’s unique behavior issues.

#3 Don’t bring small children unless you can’t help it. A busy animal hospital is tough on small kids. They’re not old enough to benefit enough from the educational experience relative to their risk of getting hurt. We worry.

#2 Don’t be rude. Courtesy is king. Silence is golden (within reason). And all that stuff. I don’t have to tell you that, but this post wouldn’t be complete without it.

#1 Don’t be shy. Ask for what you need. If your pet is freaking out, you should let someone know (if it isn’t obvious). We want your pet to be as comfy as possible and it’s not going to happen unless we know about it.

Oh, don’t forget to email me (p.khuly@petmd.com) the topics you’d most like to hear about––medical, money, ethical or otherwise––and prepare yourself for my opinionated answers.

To see the full article on PetMD’s blog click here