Archive for the ‘Labradoodle Advice’ Category

Projects For Your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle

Tuesday, March 30th, 2010

We are always looking for articles that provide helpful information for us and our Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle dog/puppy families, we came across this article and thought it was informative in that it provides tips on how to keep your Australian Labradoodle busy while you’re away for a short time running errands!

Home Alone…DOG PROJECTS

Do you feel guilty when you leave your dog with nothing to do while you are at work all day?

Some people hate to leave their dogs alone at all, and opt to take them to “doggy daycare” facilities. This can be a problem too. You can end up with a dog that can never be left alone – ever!

While my dogs are young (generally 2 years and under) I leave them crated whenever I am not home. I like to leave them with some projects to keep them busy, though I REALLY think they just sleep when I’m not home.

Some ideas for “projects”

Different surfaces to chew, like hard Nylabones, soft Gumabones, Booda Bones (edible bones made of compressed cornstarch), etc. I try to leave several different choices. I DO NOT leave rawhide or rope bones in the crate unsupervised – or anything else that can be chewed up too quickly or torn apart.

My favorite thing to leave for lonely dogs are toys stuffed with goodies, like Kong or Tuffy toys (made by the Kong Company – choose an appropriate size) or a sturdy sterilized bone (which is the ONLY real bone I recommend). You stuff these items with something irresistible. Try peanut butter, “squeezy cheese” (the kind that comes in a can at your grocery store, DO NOT use hunks of cheese, the dog may choke on them), dog food, soft moist treats, goldfish crackers, bread, etc. For more “stuffing” recipes visit the Kong web site.

The most important considerations are: 1. The dog MORE than loves the treat you chose 2. It is a treat the dog does not get at any other time 3. Test a small portion first to make sure the treat does not cause diarrhea or vomiting.

Another alternative is to use a “Buster Cube”. These toys, which resemble plastic dice, are available at your local pet supply store. You fill them with dried dog food and teach your dog to tumble the cube around to get the food out. Since the treat is not messy, these can also be used when your dog is old enough to be left alone uncrated. Remember, this food is part of your dog’s daily intake, so feed less at mealtime. If you like, you can feed the whole meal from the cube.

Your dog will be less stressed or worried if you also confine him (just like you do when you leave) for random and variable times while you are at home. Then confinement doesn’t become a signal of being left alone. Watch for more on crate training and proper use of crates in an upcoming article.

Pam Young, LVT CDBC CPDT
Dog Gone Good LLC
Dog Behavior Consultant
Personal Dog Trainer

Click here to see the full article online

Teaching Your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle Fun Tricks

Friday, March 19th, 2010

Jason, our vet tech here at Manor Lake really enjoys working with our dogs, especially teaching them how to do tricks- right now he is working on “shake”. We thought we would also share this article with you on how to teach your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle some fun tricks!

How to Teach Your Dog Tricks
From The Dog Training Guide online

The key to teaching your dog tricks is a lot of repetition and rewards. It is important to reward your dog with praises and/or treats when he is learning how to perform a new trick. Positive reinforcement is key. Only practice tricks for a few minutes at a time, your dog may become tired or frustrated because repeating tricks over and over may cause your dog’s muscles to become fatigued. After each session reward your dog with a fun play session.

Paw
This is a fairly easy trick to teach your dog. The paw trick is your dog shaking your hand. Start by having your dog sit and simply reach your hand out and take hold of your dog’s paw while saying “Paw”. After a while all you have to do is reach out your hand and say “Paw” and your dog will put his paw in your hand.

Kiss
This is a fairly simple trick where you get your dog to lick you on command. Simply say “Kiss me” anytime your dog licks you. As an incentive you can put peanut butter on your face for him to lick off and say “Kiss me” while he is licking it off. After a while your dog will “kiss” you anytime you give the “Kiss me” command.

Catch
Catch is probaly one of the easiest tricks you can teach since it’ll come naturally to most dogs. Simply toss a treat (small enough so that they won’t choke on it and big enough for them to see it) into the air and when your dog sees it they will grab it before it can hit the ground. This may take a little while for your dog to get this trick so keep on practicing by tossing up treats.

Fetch
Fetch is another trick that comes naturally for most dogs. Simply throw a ball or another object that you want your dog to retrieve and he’ll go get it and return it to you. If you dog doesn’t fetch the object, throw the ball and run with your dog to retrieve the object. Give your dog a treat every time you retrieve the object (you can cut a slit into a ball, place treats inside the ball and take them out of the ball when retrieved for a stronger association with the ball and the treats). After a while you can throw the ball and your dog will automatically go after the ball and return it to you in order to get the treat. After a while slowly wean your dog off the treats by only giving them a treat every other retrieval, then every 3 retrievals and so on.

Beg
This is one of the more advanced tricks, your dog stands up on their hind legs to beg. Start by having your dog sit and hold a treat at his nose and bring it above your dog’s head at a height where they have to stand on their hind legs to reach the treat. While doing this say “Beg” and give him the treat when he is standing on his hind legs. You can help your dog stand up by holding his paws for support. Each successive time you perform this trick, wait a little longer before giving him the treat.

Speak
Try to get your dog to bark by finding an activity or game that gets your dog excited and talk to him in an upbeat tone of voice. Once your dog starts barking say “Speak”. Reward him by playing the game or doing that activity which got him to speak and/or reward him with a treat. After a while your dog will learn to bark whenever you give the “Speak” command.

Bow
This trick is where your dog looks like he is taking a bow by bringing his head to the floor. To start out with get your dog in a standing position. Hold a treat in front of your dog’s nose and bring it downward, his head should follow the treat while his body should stay off the ground (if he lays down simply place your hand underneath your dog to keep him from laying down and continue with the trick) and give him the treat after a couple seconds and say bow. After a while your dog will learn to bow whenever you give the “Bow” command.

From The Dog Training Guide- dogtraininguide.com
To see the article on their website click here

Classes and Training for your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle in Seattle

Friday, March 12th, 2010

Live in the Seattle area? You might want to check out the Seattle Humane Society’s Classes and Training programs.  They look like a lot fun and would be something that benefits you and your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle. Classes include-

  • Doga: Yoga with Your Dog
  • Single Session Workshops and Seminars
  • Flyball
  • Foundation Dog Training: Puppy Head Start, Puppy Manners, Dog Manners & NEW Double Dog Manners
  • Continuing Dog Training: Super Puppy, Super Manners & CANINE Good Citizen
  • Advanced Dog Training: Manners About Town & NEW Control Unleashed!
  • Agility
  • Playgroups
  • Reactive Rover: Managing On Leash Dog-to-Dog Aggression
  • Pet First Aid

For more information on these classes click HERE. Be sure to let us know how they go if you attend any!

Pet Sitter for Your Australian Labradoodle?

Tuesday, March 9th, 2010

We get many questions about Pet Sitters and Boarding your Australian Labradoodle when families go on vacation.  The below is an article that veterinarian Dr. Susan Wright wrote for Manor Lake.

You’ve been looking forward to the family vacation for quite some time, but unfortunately an important part of your family can’t go. This can cause a mixed bag of emotions including feeling guilt at leaving your four legged friend behind, feeling fear that they won’t be looked after properly, dreading having to find them a carer, all mixed together with the excitement of finally having a holiday. Here are a few ideas to help you calm down and deal with the situation, so you’ll all be happy.

The best scenario for your dog when you go away is to have a good friend or relative, who loves your dog almost as much as you do, come and stay at your place. This is by far the least stressful solution for your dog, and they’ll be able to keep an eye on your house at the same time. Unfortunately, this isn’t always possible so you need a backup option.

You could send him to your friend’s or relative’s home for his own little vacation. Do you have someone that would welcome your dog into their home while you are gone? He will feel more comfortable with someone he already knows rather than with a stranger.

If that is not feasible either, then you can find a dog minder that you can pay to stay in your home, or to take your dog into theirs. The number one criteria for this sitter are that they must genuinely love your dog. Once that has been confirmed, everything else can be worked out. You’ll be able to tell if your potential sitter is a dog lover when you first meet them, and your dog will let you know if he likes them too.

Some people confine their dog to an area where they can’t make a mess or cause too much damage, and have a person look in on their dog once or twice a day while they are gone. Being alone for so long can make your dog anxious, and this can in fact be dangerous for your do. If your dog suddenly becomes ill or injured, he can be left to suffer for a long time, until his next scheduled visit from his carer.

Another good option is to use a boarding kennel for your dog. If you need to find a kennel, how can you really be sure whether it is suitable for your dog? The only way is to visit the establishment, and thoroughly check it out. Make sure it is clean, and meet the people who will be caring for your dog. It’s important that you make sure your dog isn’t going to be kenneled with unfamiliar dogs from other families. This has been known to result in fights, and severe injuries to the dogs involved.

Although the kennels may not look very luxurious, that may not matter too much to your dog. If he has shelter, a soft bed, and some playtime every day, he’ll be fine for the time you’re away.

Leaving your dog when you go on a holiday can be as stressful on you as it is on your dog. Make plans for your dog well before you leave, so that you can spend your vacation without worry or stress over the wellbeing of your dog. You both deserve it.

This guest post is brought especially to you by Dog Fence DIY’s staff veterinarian Dr. Susan Wright. Dog Fence DIY will help you choose the right system for you and your pet, help you install it, and help train your pet to use your new system. Dog Fence DIY has the <a href=”http://www.dogfencediy.com/reviews/review_innotek-iuc5100/“>Innotek 5100</a> system at the best available price. For more dog fence information see <a href=”http://www.cityofboston.gov/animalcontrol/socializing.asp“>here</a>

Cleaning tips for your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle

Thursday, February 18th, 2010

We always enjoy reading The Bark magazine’s articles and blogs- they always post fun information about training, events in different areas and other doggy advice. We came across this article and thought it might be helpful to our Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle families!

Pup-Perfect Cleaning Tips
Tricks of the Trade
By Tom McNulty
McNulty-PupPerfectCleaning-200_1

Winter’s often-arctic temperatures don’t inspire long walks or afternoons in the park with the dog. Like us, our canine pals spend more time indoors, which—because they’re biological creatures who shed and are prone to the occasional gastrointestinal indiscretion—creates more potential “clean-up ops” for us. Here are some quick tips for dealing with the inevitable.

•Fur on the furniture? Use a piece of terry cloth to brush it to one spot, then pick it up; a slightly dampened sponge or rubber gloves also work well as picker-uppers.

•For stains, stock up on white vinegar or commercial stain- and odor-neutralizing products; those with enzymes or “oxy” in the name work best. Keep some old white or light-colored cotton towels or white paper towels at hand.

•Accidents on carpeting require immediate attention. For fresh urine, blot the spot, apply a pet stain/odor remover spray or a vinegar solution (1/3 cup vinegar to 2/3 cup water), blot again and repeat as needed. For upchuck, remove residue and blot with cotton towels. Apply a detergent solution (1/4 teaspoon clear dishwashing detergent mixed with 1 cup water) and blot well. Rinse with plain water, blot and allow to dry. Whatever method you choose, test it out first on an inconspicuous spot, and try not to soak the carpet.

•Place a throw rug on your dog’s favorite resting place to keep the carpet clean, and check out the grime- and water-trapper varieties for the door. Tracked in mud should be scraped up (or allowed to dry and vacuumed up) and any stains treated ASAP.

You can find the article here at The Bark online

Tom McNulty is the author of Clean Like a Man, which is full of guy-friendly housekeeping tips and tricks. Visit cleanlikeaman.com for more.

Exercise and your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle

Monday, February 8th, 2010

We follow Cesar Millan on Twitter and the other day he tweeted about too much exercise for dogs- we thought this was interesting so we thought we would share it with you. Many families ask us about the amount of exercise their puppy should receive when they get them. Let us know if you think it was helpful!

Ask the Vet: Puppies and Exercise

Is there such a thing as TOO much exercise for a dog? For puppies?

I have always adhered to the theory that, as long as you are careful, the dog is the best one to tell you what is too much exercise. Puppies often do not have enough muscle tone to take long runs, but there are always exceptions. Most dogs and puppies will tell you when they have hit their limit, and it is important to resist pushing them beyond this point.

Even if your dog or puppy wants to keep going, some things you should be cautious about are:

1. Be sure that your dog does not overheat. If you are too hot, assume they are. Provide water or try to run in a cooler area.

2. Be consistent with exercise. The weekend marathon after a week of couch potato life is very hard on the joints.

3. Be cautious with your dog’s feet. Running on cement (especially hot cement) can cause sloughing of the foot pads, so try to have breaks on softer surfaces or at least work your dog up to the harder surfaces to give them a chance to form the necessary calluses.

4. Be aware of your dog’s limits. Until you understand your dog’s stamina, be sure that you are able to stop when your dog starts to lag behind. (i.e., Take the short route 5 times instead of the long route once.) If you feel that he or she is not able to go as far as they should, consult a vet to see if there is a reason for the intolerance.

About Dr. Sherry Weaver
Dr. Weaver graduated with honors from the University of Georgia’s School of Veterinary Medicine.  She founded a state of the art animal hospital that teaches pet care to children, and donates time and resources to rescue organizations.

http://www.cesarsway.com/askthevet/basicadvice/puppies-exercise

How much exercise should a puppy get?

Agree with the answer but they forgot to add if you have a large breed puppy you should wait until the growth plates have closed in their joints before hard exercise. The growth plated close at about 18 months too two years old.Non forced exercise is great but no bicycle,roller blades,running,jogging until 18 months to two years old.After that age all bets are off go for it but it helps to get them into condition first.You just don’t want your best friend to have joint problems before its time.

Indoor Activities for your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle

Friday, January 22nd, 2010

I was browsing Cesar Millan’s website this morning and came across this article- I thought it provided some good tips and ideas of things you can do to exercise your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle indoors; because we all know that sometimes its just not possible to get outside, whether its bad weather conditions (Like they’re having in California right now!) or when circumstances just do not allow. Hopefully you’ll find it helpful too! -Mollie

Indoor Activities

By Cesar Millan

In an ideal world, I know that we would all walk our dogs twice a day, for 30 minutes to an hour each time. Unfortunately, the world we live in is not always ideal; in fact, it’s sometimes downright inconvenient! When harsh weather hits, or circumstances make it difficult or impossible to venture outside for physical exercise, don’t despair! There are activities that you can enjoy with your dog right in the comfort of your own home.

Treadmill – The treadmill is a fantastic and very convenient way for your dog to get the exercise from the all-important walk without leaving home. Although not a full-time replacement for the walk, the treadmill can be used to supplement daily exercise, or, in the case of bad weather, substitute it for a short period. Remember to take it slow and allow your dog to get accustomed to the treadmill before leaping right into a running regimen. Once your dog has the hang of it, don’t be surprised if you enter the room one morning to find him sitting expectantly, waiting to be allowed to play with it! If you’re having trouble adjusting your dog to a treadmill running routine, check out the helpful tips in the new Common Canine Misbehaviors DVD.

Practice Calm Submission with Basic Commands – Your dog’s physical needs aren’t the only aspect of him that requires fulfilling. He has psychological needs, too! One activity that doesn’t demand a lot of room to move is the practice of basic training commands. Giving your dog a psychological challenge that forces him to focus and keeps his attention can be a very effective way to drain his energy and strengthen the bond that you share. Remember to keep a bag of his favorite treats on hand as a reward for calm submission… when he responds to a command with the correct behavior, that’s the right time to give affection!

Toys and Games – There is a wide range of toys and games for dogs that have been carefully engineered specifically to engage and improve cognitive functions. Most of these toys involve an incentive like a treat or a provocative scent to keep the dog interested and to reward him for playing. Check with your local pet retail stores and online for the kinds of toys you can use to make keeping your dog psychologically fulfilled into a game!

Use the Stairs – A stairway is a great place to give your dog a physical challenge. You can begin by having one person at the top of the stairs and one at the bottom. Each of you can call him and reward him for making the trip. Eventually, train him to go up and down the stairs to get his reward. Make sure it is clear when the activity begins and ends. You don’t want your dog to associate the stairway with excitement or it can lead to accidents down the road. If you need help, contact a local professional.

Hide and Seek – You can play this with family members or treats. Ask your dog to use his nose to find the hidden items or people, and reward him. This can be a fun way to get bored kids involved. Again, be clear when the activity begins and ends. When you decide the game is over, it’s over!

Doga – It may sound silly, but this combination of dog training and yoga can be a lot of fun! Yoga and other meditation exercises help you to maintain balance, so what better activity to share with our canine companions? Find out if there are clubs offering Doga in your area.

Grooming – As simple as it sounds, a bath or a brushing session is a wonderful activity for a day spent inside. Any kind of grooming, done with care and love, is a kind of affection, and sharing that affection can bring you two closer together. Be sure to satisfy exercise and discipline as much as possible beforehand, though!

Copyright 2009 Cesar Millan Inc. All rights reserved.

http://www.cesarsway.com/tips/thebasics/indoor-activities

Selecting the best dog food for your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle

Friday, January 15th, 2010

The Whole Dog Journal is a great resource for information on dog foods as well as tips on care and training. I was looking over their website today and came across this article about how to choose the right dog food, I thought it was helpful and gave some good information.

Selecting the best dog food for your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle

You are uniquely well-qualified to select the best food for your dog.

By Nancy Kerns
The Whole Dog Journal

No one is in a better position than you are to decide which food you should feed your dog. That may not be what you wanted to hear. You may have been hoping that someone would reveal to you the name of the world’s healthiest food, so you could just buy that and have it done with.

But dogs, just like people, are individuals. What works for this dog won’t work for that one. A Pointer who goes jogging with his marathon-running owner every day needs a lot more calories than the Golden Retriever who watches TV all day. The diet that contains enough fat to keep that sled dog warm through an Alaskan winter would kill that Miniature Poodle who suffers from pancreatitis. The commercial kibble that stopped my Border Collie’s itching and scratching in its tracks may cause your Bedlington Terrier to develop copper storage disease.

Every food on the market contains different ingredients, and each one has the potential to cause symptoms of allergy or intolerance in some dogs. Every food contains a different ratio of macronutrients – protein, fat, and carbohydrates – and you have to learn by trial and error which ratio works best for your dog. Each product contains varying amounts of vitamins and minerals, and though most fall within the ranges considered acceptable by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO), some may be in excess of, or deficient to your dog’s needs.

So how do you choose?

The starting place
Well, you have to start somewhere, and you undoubtedly have. Your dog is eating something already. We hope it’s a food that meets WDJ’s selection criteria, which is outlined annually in the February issue. We highlight a number of foods on our “approved” list, but consider any food that meets our selection criteria to be as good as the ones on our list. Our goal is to help you identify the foods with the best-quality ingredients – whole meats, vegetables, fruits, and grains, and high-quality sources of dietary fat – to get you into the right “ballpark” in terms of quality. Then you have to start individualized feeding trials on your dog.

Start by assessing your dog’s health. Take a sheet of paper and make a list with two columns: one for health problems, and one for health assets. Any conditions for which she receives veterinary care or medications go in the “problems” column. Other conditions that should be listed here include bad breath; teeth that are prone to tartar buildup; chronically goopy eyes; infection-prone or stinky ears; a smelly, greasy, flaky, or thinning coat; itchy paws; excessive gas; recurrent diarrhea, constipation, or incontinence; repeated infestations of worms or fleas; low or excessive energy; and a sudden onset of antisocial or aggressive behavior.

In the health assets column, list all the health characteristics that your dog has in her favor, such as fresh breath, clean teeth, bright eyes, clean ears, a lack of itching, a glossy coat, problem-free elimination, a normal appetite and energy level, and a good attitude.

If there are a lot more assets on your list than problems, and the problems are very minor, you may have already found a diet that works well for your dog. But if your list reveals a lot more problems than assets, your dog is a good candidate for a change of diet – in addition to an examination and some guidance from a good holistic veterinarian!

Now take a look at the food you are currently feeding your dog. Note the food’s ingredients, as well as its protein and fat levels, and its caloric content. Write all of this down, so you can make logical adjustments if need be.

Nutritional management of disease
Just two decades ago, it was considered fairly radical to propose that canine diseases could be treated, at least in part, by manipulating the patients’ diets. Today, the increasing availability of “prescription” diets is the big story in the pet food industry. As stated by the editors in the preface of the fourth edition (2000) of Small Animal Clinical Nutrition (the nutrition bible for most veterinarians):

“This is truly an exciting time for those involved in the discipline of clinical nutrition because of the veterinary profession’s increased understanding of the role of nutrition in health and disease management, pet owners’ continued interest in receiving the best nutritional information for their pets and the recent proliferation of commercially available therapeutic foods. Our ability to improve the quality of life for pets and their owners is great.”

If your dog has any sort of disease or an inherited propensity for disease, ask your veterinarian about the benefits of nutritional therapy to help treat or prevent the disease. Don’t settle for the suggestion of a commercial “prescription” diet; most of them are formulated with lower-quality ingredients. Instead, ask what specifically in the diet has been manipulated so as to be beneficial for your dog. Then, see if you can find a product that offers the same benefits and better-quality ingredients. The best example is a “kidney” diet for dogs with kidney failure. The goal is to feed these patients a diet with a moderate level of very high-quality protein and low amounts of phosphorus (see “When to Say No to Low-Protein,” WDJ May 2005). An intelligently formulated home-prepared diet can do a far better job of accomplishing these goals than the commercial diets on the market.

You should also do some research on your own to determine what dietary changes might help your dog. A good starting place is Donald R. Strombeck’s Home-Prepared Dog & Cat Diets: The Healthful Alternative (available by order in bookstores, and from www.Amazon.com and www.DogWise.com). Dr. Strombeck details strategies for changing the dog’s diet to treat and/or prevent gastrointestinal, skin, skeletal and joint, renal, urinary, endocrine, heart, pancreatic, and hepatic disease.

Other diseases that can be improved with dietary management include:

Allergy or intolerance. There are a number of breeds that are particularly susceptible to food allergies, including Cocker Spaniels, Dalmatians, English Springer Spaniels, Labrador Retrievers, Lhasa Apsos, Miniature Schnauzers, and more. Again, it’s important to keep a record of what foods you feed your dog, what they contain, and how your dog looks and feels. If your records indicate that one or more ingredients trigger bad reactions in your dog, seek out foods that do not contain those ingredients in any amount. (See “Walking the Allergy Maze,” August 2004 and “Diet Makes the Difference,” May 2001.)

Cancer. High-fat, low-carbohydrate (or carb-free) diets are ideal for cancer patients. Cancer cells use carbs for energy, and don’t easily utilize fat, so you can effectively “starve” the cancer cells while providing extra energy to your dog with a diet rich in a high-quality fat sources. (See “Feed the Dog, Starve the Cancer,” November 2003.)

Inherited metabolism disorders. Some breeds are prone to diseases with a strong dietary influence. For example, the West Highland White Terrier and the Cocker Spaniel have an inherited tendency to suffer from copper buildup in the liver; these dogs should eat a diet that is formulated with low levels of copper. Malamutes and Siberian Huskies can inherit a zinc metabolism disorder, and require a high-zinc diet (or zinc supplements).

Ask your veterinarian (and reliable breeders) about your dog’s breed-related nutritional requirements. And contact the manufacturer of your dog’s food for the expanded version of the food’s nutrient levels. Pet food makers are not required to print the levels of every nutrient on their labels, but should make this information available to you upon request.

Caloric considerations
Another thing you have to consider is the caloric content of the food you choose. If the food you select for your dog is energy-dense, and your dog is a couch potato, you may have to cut her daily ration considerably to prevent her from getting fat. Some dogs respond to forced dieting with begging, counter-surfing, and garbage-raiding. If your dog is one of these, you may have to seek out a high-fiber, low-calorie food – one that may not necessarily contain the highest-quality protein or fat sources on the market – to keep your dog feeling contentedly full without getting fat.

Dogs exhibit a wide range of energy requirements. You may have to seek out a higher- or lower-calorie food based on the following attributes that can affect your dog’s energy needs:

Activity level. The more a dog exercises the more energy he needs to consume to maintain his condition; it’s that simple.

Growth. Growing puppies have higher energy requirements than adult dogs. A food with a higher protein level, but a moderate (not high) fat level is ideal. Obese puppies are far more prone to degenerative joint disease – especially in large and giant breeds – than puppies with a normal or slim physique.

Age. The age at which a dog becomes a senior citizen varies from breed to breed, with larger dogs considered geriatric at earlier ages. Older dogs typically require fewer calories to maintain their body weight and condition, partly because they tend to be less active than younger dogs.

Environmental conditions. Dogs who live or spend much of their time outside in severe cold temperatures need from 10 percent to as much as 90 percent more energy than dogs who enjoy a temperate climate. The thickness and quality of the dog’s coat, the amount of body fat he has, and the quality of his shelter have direct effects on the dog’s energy needs.

Illness. Sick dogs have increased energy needs; it takes energy to mount an immune response or repair tissues. However, dogs who do not feel well also tend to be inactive, which lowers their energy needs.

Reproduction. A pregnant female’s energy requirement does not increase significantly until the final third of her pregnancy, when it may increase by a factor of three.

Lactation. A nursing female may require as much as eight times as much energy as a female of the same age and condition who is not nursing.

Neutering. It is generally accepted that neutered (and spayed) dogs have reduced energy needs. However, there are actually no studies that conclusively prove that neutered dogs require fewer calories simply as a result of lower hormone levels. It has been suggested that these dogs gain weight due to increased appetites and/or decreased activity levels.

Other individual factors. Other factors that can affect a dog’s energy requirement include its temperament (nervous or placid?) and skin, fat, and coat quality (how well he is insulated against weather conditions).

Human factors
Finally, there are the human factors that may influence your dog-food purchasing decision, such as cost and local availability. Understand that there is a connection between the quality of an animal’s food and his health, and do the best you can do.

It’s also worth considering the reliability, responsiveness, and availability of the manufacturer’s customer service people. It can be frustrating and costly if a company makes terrific food, but you can never reach them, your direct-ship order is regularly late, or the customer service people are either rude or unhelpful. Today, there are too many companies doing a good job and making good food to put up with this.

http://www.whole-dog-journal.com/issues/8_7/features/15728-1.html

Manor Lake Australian Labradoodles’ Grooming Tips

Friday, January 8th, 2010

Manor Lake Australian Labradoodles’ Grooming Tips

We get many questions about grooming Australian Labradoodles and good grooming is very important to the overall health of your Australian Labradoodle puppy or dog.  All groomers are different, so it may take a bit to find one that both you and your Australian Labradoodle are comfortable with.  Below are Manor Lake Australian Labradoodles’ recommended tips.

Choose an established groomer that has been in business for at least two years.  Ask a friend, veterinarian or breeder for a groomer recommendation in your area.

Make an appointment in advance – most good groomers have full schedules and schedule appointments in advance.

Check the surroundings at your groomers – are they organized and clean?   Is the groomer friendly?  Is the groomer knowledgeable and helpful?

Prepare your Australian Labradoodle for their first visit to the groomer by beginning early to gently brush/comb your Australian Labradoodle puppy.  This gets them used to the idea of a brush or comb and prepares you well for a trip to the groomer.

When you take your puppy/dog to the groomer you need to be specific on what you want done.  Specify the coat length that you want on your puppy/dog – i.e. 1 inch, 2 inch, etc.   Do you want nails trimmed?  Ears cleaned?  Be specific.  You may want to take a picture to the groomer of how you would like your dog/puppy to look.

Be on time for your appointment and treat your groomer well.  Pick up your finished groomed Australian Labradoodle on time.

The groomer will be combing/brushing out your Australian Labradoodle dog/puppy – so that when you pick him/her up, they will be most likely be a bit “poofy”.  You may want to spritz a bit of water on your dogs coat after you return home.  This will return the coat back to its normal wave/curl and take out the poofyness.

Your groomer will need to trim nails on your Australian Labradoodle dog/puppy, pluck some hairs from inside the ears, trim between the dogs’ /puppy’s eyes and cut short the hair that is beneath the ears, when the ears are laying flat.

You may also want the coat cut short around the privates on your Australian Labradoodle puppy/dog and also on the underside or stomach.  If  your dog/puppy is active outside, then small sticks/weeds can adhere  in the underside of your Australian Labradoodle dog/puppy’s coat.  With the underside or stomach area trimmed shorter, this prevents sticks/weeds from adhering quite so much.

As far as timing of when you groom your Australian Labradoodle puppy/dog it is up to you.  Usually once every two months is plenty.  An initial visit at around 4 to 6 months of age is a good time to start.  If your puppy is around this age, a good length would be a 1 inch cut puppy cut – this would cut off the older hair on the end of the coat and allow for nice growth of your puppies new coat coming in later on.

Good luck and hope these tips are helpful!

Kim Kochman
Owner/Breeder
Manor Lake Australian Labradoodles
www.manorlakelabradoodles.com
Manor Lake Dog Boutique
www.manorlakedogboutique.com

Australian Labradoodle Fun – Dog Facts

Thursday, January 7th, 2010

Found these fun dog facts that we wanted to share:

An American Animal Hospital Association poll found that 33% of dog owners admit to talking to their dogs on the phone and leaving answering machine messages for them while away.

An estimated 1,000,000 dogs in the U.S. have been named as the primary beneficiaries in their owner’s will.

The U.S.has the highest dog population in the world — France is second.

A one year old dog is as mature, physically, as a 15 year old human

Dogs’ only sweat glands are between their paw pads.