Archive for the ‘Labradoodle Health’ Category

Puppy Development- Birth to Two Weeks

Wednesday, January 19th, 2011

Cesar Millan’s website serves as a helpful resource in puppy training and pet related information. Below is an article from his website about puppy development from birth to two weeks.

Stage 1: Birth – 2 weeks

After an initial gestation period of approximately 2 months, a puppy is born blind and deaf – less developed than a human baby. This first stage of development is often referred to as “neonatal.” For most of this stage, the puppy is entirely dependent on its mother. In addition to their sensory handicap after birth, their movement is severely limited, they cannot regulate their own body temperature, and they require special stimulation to remove waste products. They can, however, cry, and the suck reflex is already strong. Smell, touch, and taste are all active and strong. Within the first week after birth, a puppy will normally double its own weight.

The puppy’s ear canals will open right around the 2 week mark, allowing it to hear sounds for the first time. The sense of hearing will fully develop over the course of the next few stages. Socialization is important at every stage of a puppy’s life, but is perhaps most important during the neonatal period. The puppy will be learning the basics from its mother and littermates; movement, social etiquette, and most important of all: rules, boundaries, and limitations!

Related Posts:

Caring for your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle in the Winter

Monday, January 17th, 2011

PetMD is a really great resource for information on caring for your Australian Labradoodle. They post articles related to health, play, nutrition and many more. We were reading over this article and thought it appropriate as we get through these winter months.

8 Tips For Caring For Your Pet This Winter

Living in a Winter Wonderland?

Unless you’re one of the lucky ones living in one of the balmier states, you’ve felt the cold chill of winter arrive. For some of us, cold weather is regarded as a mere nuisance; for others, it’s a fun time filled with snowboarding, skiing and other winter joys; and still others will find this time of bone-chilling weather and huge piles of snow a veritable nightmare to endure.

Whatever your viewpoint on winter, one thing remains the same for all of us with pets: it’s a time when our beloved babies need a little extra care. Luckily, PetMD has compiled a list of tips to protect your pet from the dangers of winter.

1. In or Out?

Does your pet spend most of the time in the backyard? You might want to keep her indoors during the freezing months, especially if you live in bitterly cold areas. No one wants an icicle for a pet — they’re simply not that cuddly.

2. Bare Naked Truth

If you must keep your pet outdoors, consider this: Would a fur coat alone (even if it is faux mink) keep you warm against the elements? No? Well, your pet’s fur coat isn’t enough protection for your pet during winter, either. Be a pal and provide your dog with a warm, dry, and draft free shelter outside; the shelter should also comply with any state laws that apply.

3. No More Frozen Dinners!

Because it takes more energy to stay warm when it’s cold, outdoor animals eat more during the winter. Likewise, fresh, running water is vital for maintaining your pet’s health. Keep an eye on the water bowls and make sure they haven’t turned into little skating rinks for fleas (boo, fleas!). While ice pops might be a fun treat, your pet really doesn’t want to have to lick a frozen lump of ice to get his water.

4. Latest Fad Diet?

Indoor animals, meanwhile, have different dietary needs. They conserve energy by sleeping more in the winter. Dogs and cats also exercise much less when they do go outside, so you may need to adjust the amount of food accordingly. After all, no one wants an overweight pet.

5. Frosty the Biting Snowman

We’re not talking about the latest horror movie offering from Hollywood. Frosting is a serious problem during winter, especially for paws, tips of tails, and ears. This makes it even more important in keeping your pet warm, especially if they’re an outdoor pet. Get special booties, coats, and maybe a hat for your pet during her walks, and look for early warning signs of frostbite such as firm, waxy skin and blisters.

6. The Deadly Drink

The worst of all the wintertime chemical spills is antifreeze, which often leaks from a car’s radiator. It may taste delicious to your cats or dogs, but it is extremely deadly — even the smallest sip can be fatal. If your pet starts acting “drunk” or begins to convulse, take him to the vet immediately. Better yet, keep all pets away from the garage and clean up any accidental spillage. You should also not let your dog wander too far during his walks. Who knows what dangers lie in your neighbors’ driveways?

7. Salty Solution

Do you live in an area with cold and icy winters? Then you are probably accustomed to salt on the sidewalks and roads. However, the types of salt (typically calcium or sodium chloride) used to melt ice and snow and keep it from refreezing are somewhat harsh on delicate paws — not to mention they corrode concrete and damage the beautiful vegetation. Protect your pet’s paws, and keep him warm during walks, by outfitting him with booties.

8. Joy Ride

Cars are particularly attractive to animals in the winter-time, especially frigid cats that love to climb up under the hood and curl up on the warm motor. This, as you can imagine, has led to many mishaps when motorists start their car … ouch! Avoid such accidents by tapping your car’s hood before starting the vehicle. Sure, you may wake Kitty from her deep slumber, but she’ll thank you in the long run.

Wintering with your pet is mostly common sense. If you’re cold, your beloved pet will most likely be cold too. So snuggle up, keep your pet warm and safe, and sooner than you can say “Jack Russell,” we’ll all be hitting the beaches for some summertime fun.

Related Posts:

Holiday Pet Safety from the FDA

Tuesday, December 21st, 2010

The FDA is another great resource for pet information, we check their website often and read through this article below, it’s all about keeping your pets safe during the holidays!

Holiday Pet Safety from the FDA

by Carmela Stamper, DVM, Center for Veterinary Medicine, FDA

Yes, it’s that holiday time of year again.  While you’re busy decorating, baking, wrapping gifts, and preparing your household for guests, remember to watch out for holiday temptations for your pets.  Don’t let a pet disaster turn both your and your pets’ Holiday “Ho-Ho-Ho!” into a Holiday “Oh No!”

Pet Treats

Santa brought Fido his favorite pet treats as a stocking stuffer.  Lucky Fido!  But, be careful when giving Fido his stocking stuffer.  Because he likes his favorite treats so much, Fido may eat them whole, or eat too many at one time.  Pet treats, whether biscuits, rawhides, or jerky sticks, are most digestible when chewed into small pieces.  If Fido eats the treats whole, or eats too many at once, he may not be able to digest them.  Unchewed pet treats can get stuck in the trachea (windpipe) or gastrointestinal tract (esophagus, stomach, and intestines), particularly in small dogs.

If a piece of pet treat gets stuck in Fido’s trachea (windpipe), you may see Fido become frantic and start drooling and choking.  Severe tracheal blockages are fairly common, especially around the holidays, and all are life-threatening.  So, if you see frantic Fido drooling and choking, he needs an emergency visit to his veterinarian!

If a piece of pet treat gets stuck in Fido’s esophagus (the tube that connects the mouth to the stomach that food travels through), he may gulp, start drooling, or bring up undigested food after eating.  Fido brings up the undigested food because the piece of pet treat blocks his dog food from getting to his stomach and there’s nowhere else for the food to go but back up.  This can go on for days if the blockage is not removed.

If something is stuck in Fido’s stomach or intestines, such as a bone or chew toy, the symptoms are different and you may not notice for several days.  He may vomit and have diarrhea, be less active, not want to eat, and have stomach pain.  If the blockage stays in Fido’s stomach or intestines for too long, he may become very ill.   The worst-case scenario is when a hole develops at the blockage site, causing a life-threatening infection.

In the cases above, Fido needs a visit to his veterinarian as soon as possible.  If he’s choking, it’s an emergency requiring immediate action.  When in doubt, contact your veterinarian for medical advice.  Your veterinarian may need to take X-rays, use ultrasound, or perform other tests to see what and where the problem is.  Your veterinarian may use an endoscope (a long tube with a built-in camera and grabbing tools) to remove reachable objects from the esophagus and stomach.  Fido will likely need surgery to remove blockages in the intestines.

Tinsel and Ribbons

When decorating your tree and wrapping or unwrapping gifts, keep a close eye on where you leave your leftover tinsel, string, and ribbons.  Tigger, your big orange and white kitty, may find these decorations irresistible because they look like easy-to-catch, sparkly, and wiggly prey.  If Tigger eats these types of decorations, he may end up with serious stomach and intestinal damage.  Swallowed ribbons and string can get tangled in the stomach or intestines.  If they are not removed, the ribbons and string can saw through the lining of the stomach or intestines, causing a life-threatening infection.  Symptoms may take a few hours or several days to appear, and include vomiting, diarrhea, lack of appetite, and decreased activity.  If you see Tigger eat any string, tinsel, or ribbon, call your veterinarian and ask for medical advice.  Play it safe—keep the tinsel off the tree and collect all ribbons and strings after opening your gifts!

Plants

Many people have festive plants around the house for the holidays, including poinsettias, holly, and mistletoe.  Remember to keep your furry family members in mind when you display or dispose of your holiday plants.

Poinsettias

Colorful, large red and white poinsettias fill your living room and family room, bringing holiday cheer to everyone who sees them.  However, Tigger sees the poinsettias and considers them a great hiding place and a convenient snack when you’re late with his dinner.

Unfortunately, what Tigger doesn’t realize is that poinsettias have a milky white, latex sap that can be very irritating to his mouth and stomach.  According to the National Animal Poison Control Center (NAPCC), symptoms of poinsettia toxicity include drooling, and sometimes, vomiting and diarrhea.  Fortunately for Tigger, the symptoms associated with poinsettia toxicity are not too bad.[1] However, if Tigger snacks on your poinsettia leaves, you can help him by picking up his food and water dishes for a couple of hours to let his stomach settle.[2]

Mistletoe

Waiting for a kiss from that special someone under the mistletoe?  Tigger or Fido may also be waiting under the mistletoe in hopes of getting a tasty snack.  Your horse Trigger may also get a mistletoe snack if you hang it near her stall door or throw it into her field after the holiday celebrations are over.  If your pets eat mistletoe, what should you expect?  The NAPCC states that the major toxic chemicals in mistletoe are lectins and phoratoxins.  These chemicals affect the heart, causing low blood pressure and slowed heart rate.  Fortunately for Fido, Tigger, and Trigger, severe mistletoe toxicity is uncommon and usually only occurs if your pet eats a large amount. The symptoms of mistletoe toxicity include gastrointestinal upset (vomiting and diarrhea in dogs and cats; colic in horses), difficulty breathing, slowed heart rate, low blood pressure, and odd behavior.  If you suspect Fido, Tigger, or Trigger ate mistletoe, call your veterinarian for medical advice.

Holly

The beautiful holly decorating your house isn’t very harmful, but you should still keep Fido, Tigger, and Trigger from eating the berries and leaves.  The main toxic culprit in holly leaves and berries is a group of chemicals called saponins.  In dogs and cats, these chemicals cause drooling, vomiting, diarrhea, loss of appetite, and decreased activity.[3] In horses, diarrhea can occur.[4]

In the three cases above, it’s a good idea to call your veterinarian. Your veterinarian can give you advice on what you can do at home to make your pet more comfortable and help you decide if you should bring your pet in for a visit.

Table Scraps

It’s hard to ignore Fido’s sad puppy-dog eyes when you’re eating your holiday meals.  However, resist the temptation to give him a piece of turkey or chicken, or some other type of fatty holiday comfort food.  In addition to the typical gastrointestinal upset (vomiting and diarrhea), rich and fatty foods can cause a potentially life-threatening and painful disease called pancreatitis.  The most common symptoms of pancreatitis in dogs include vomiting, stomach pain, restlessness, shaking, diarrhea, fever, and weakness.  In cats, the symptoms are less clear and harder to notice, such as decreased appetite and weight loss.[5] Keep Fido and Tigger happy and healthy by resisting the temptation to give them table scraps!

You’ve done a great job, and neither Fido nor Tigger received any table scraps during your holiday meals.  However, disappointed Fido took the opportunity to help himself to the turkey, chicken, and steak bones in the trash can.  Eating bones is dangerous to Fido and the dangers are similar to what can happen with unchewed pet treats.  Bones can get stuck in his esophagus, leading to gagging, or they can get stuck in his trachea, leading to life-threatening choking.  Also, while Fido chews them up, bones form sharp pieces which can injure his mouth, esophagus, and stomach.  As the sharp bone pieces travel from the stomach through the intestines, they can cause punctures and injuries along the way, potentially leading to a life-threatening infection.  Bone pieces can also get stuck in the stomach and intestines, creating blockages that must be removed.

Hold your ground at dinnertime, and resist the urge to feed Fido and Tigger table scraps.  And don’t forget, once dinner is done, dispose of the leftovers and bones somewhere where Fido and Tigger can’t get to them.

Human Treats

Fido, being the big dog he is, decides that eating the bones and leftovers from the trash can isn’t enough for his holiday dinner.  So, he table surfs in the living room and eats some of the chocolate-covered caramels in the candy dish along with several sugar-free red and white mints.  Can the chocolate and mints hurt him?  It depends.  Chocolate toxicity depends on the type and amount of chocolate Fido ate, his body weight, and if he’s extra-sensitive to the toxic compound in chocolate called theobromine.  Theobromine toxicity can cause a variety of symptoms, from mild to severe, including vomiting, diarrhea, fast heart rate, restlessness, hyperactivity, increased urination, muscle spasms, and seizures.[6]

The seemingly harmless sugar-free red and white mints you bought for your diabetic Uncle Ralph can cause life-threatening problems for Fido if the mints contain xylitol.  Xylitol, an increasingly popular artificial sweetener, is found in food items such as candy, gum, and baked goods, and personal hygiene products, such as toothpaste and mouthwash.[7] Symptoms occur quickly after dogs eat xylitol-containing items.  Vomiting is generally the first symptom, followed by those associated with the sudden lowering of Fido’s blood sugar (hypoglycemia), such as decreased activity, weakness, staggering, incoordination, collapse, and seizures.  Some dogs develop more severe complications, including liver failure, bleeding disorders, and death.[8] If you suspect Fido has eaten chocolate or xylitol-containing items, consider it an emergency and call your veterinarian immediately.

Alcohol is another potentially harmful human treat.  Fido and Tigger decide they need some holiday cheer and drink the entire glass of Aunt Susie’s eggnog that she left unattended on the coffee table.  Although it may seem funny at the time, pets that consume alcohol can develop serious problems depending on how much they drink.  The most common symptoms in pets associated with the consumption of alcoholic beverages are vomiting, diarrhea, incoordination, weakness, decreased activity, difficulty breathing, and shaking.  In severe cases, coma and death from respiratory failure (lungs stop functioning) occur.  If you see Fido and Tigger drinking an alcoholic beverage, call your veterinarian.

The “Wrap Up”

Don’t let the information in this article scare you into paranoia about your pets and your holiday celebrations.  You can relax and enjoy your holidays simply by preventing temptations for your pets.  Keep holiday decorations, people food, alcoholic beverages, and holiday plants out of reach of your furry friends.  If your pets get into things they shouldn’t, don’t panic!  Call your veterinarian immediately for advice instead of waiting for serious symptoms to develop.  Remember, only you can keep the “Oh No!” out of your and your pets’ Holiday “Ho-Ho-Ho!”

How Can You Get More Information?


[1] Volmer P.  Toxicology Brief:  “How Dangerous are Winter and Spring Holiday Plants to Pets?” Veterinary Medicine, December 2002, pp. 879-884.
[2] Ibid.
[3] Ibid.
[4] Cooperative Extension System and University of MD,  www.extension.org/faq
[5] Birchard SJ and Sherding RG, Johnson SE. “Chapter 10: Diseases and Surgery of the Exocrine Pancreas” in Saunders Manual of Small Animal Practice, SJ Birchard and RG Sherding, eds. 1994. WBSaunders Company: Philadelphia, pp. 768-773.
[6] http://www.vet.purdue.edu/vth/SACP/chocolate_toxicity.htm
[7] Dunayer, EK. New Findings on the Effects of Xylitol Ingestion in Dogs. Veterinary Medicine. December 2006, pp. 791-797.
[8] Ibid.
Related Posts:

Celebrate Halloween with your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle

Tuesday, October 26th, 2010

Celebrate Halloween with your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle by treating them to this yummy meal from Rachael Ray!

Gulliver’s Goblin Stoup

Serves 2 Dogs or 1 Human

Note: Always check with your vet about which foods are appropriate for you to share with your pet.

Ingredients

  • 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil (EVOO)
  • 2 carrots, grated
  • 1 cup cooked shredded rotisserie chicken
  • 3 black mission figs, chopped
  • 1 pinch ground cinnamon
  • 2 cups chicken broth or water
  • 1 cup cooked brown rice

Preparation

In a deep, medium skillet, heat the EVOO, 1 turn of the pan, over medium-high heat. Add the carrots and cook until slightly softened, 3-4 minutes. Add the chicken, figs and cinnamon and toss. Stir in half of the chicken broth, then the rice and warm through, 3-4 minutes. Stir in more broth, as needed, to make a slightly soupy mixture.

Related Posts:

Protect Your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle From Fleas

Friday, June 18th, 2010

With nearly 2,000 species and subspecies, fleas thrive in warm, humid environments, and feed on the blood of their hosts. Dogs play host to the cat flea (Ctenocephalides felis), whose dark brown or black body is usually one to three millimeters in length.

Why Are Dogs Susceptible to Fleas?

Fleas are hearty and nimble, and when searching for a host, they can jump 10,000 times in a row (the length of three football fields). Three pairs of legs make for excellent leaping capabilities (up to two feet), and a laterally flattened body allows for quick movement in a dog’s fur.

With a complete life cycle ranging anywhere from 16 days to 21 months, depending on environmental conditions, fleas are most commonly found on a dog’s abdomen, the base of the tail and the head. With heavy infestations, however, fleas can thrive anywhere on the body. They feed once every day or two, and generally remain on their host during the interim.

What Are Some Signs of Fleas in Dogs?

  • Droppings or “flea dirt” in a dog’s coat
  • Flea eggs on dog or in dog’s environment
  • Allergic dermatitis
  • Excessive scratching, licking or biting at skin
  • Hair loss
  • Scabs and hot spots
  • Pale gums
  • Tapeworms

What Are Some Complications of Fleas in Dogs?

Since fleas can consume 15 times their own body weight in blood, they can cause anemia or a significant amount of blood loss over time. This is especially problematic in young puppies, where an inadequate number of red blood cells can be life-threatening to some dogs. Signs of parasitic anemia include pale gums, cold body temperature and listlessness.

When a dog has a heightened sensitivity to the saliva of fleas, just one bite of a flea can cause an allergic reaction. This condition is known as flea allergy dermatitis and causes intense itching and discomfort for your dog. Signs include generalized hair loss, reddened skin, scabs and hot spots. Flea allergy dermatitis often leads to skin infections.

Are Certain Dogs Prone to Fleas?

Dogs who live in warm, humid climates, where fleas thrive at temperatures of 65 to 80 degrees, and those who live outdoors are most vulnerable to fleas.

What Should I Do If I Think My Dog Has Fleas?

Consult your veterinarian, who will confirm the diagnosis and discuss appropriate treatment options. It is important to tailor your treatment to your pet and his environment, since certain products in combination can be toxic. Your veterinarian can also determine the best plan for preventing fleas in the future.

How Do I Treat Fleas?

  • It is important that all of your pets are treated for fleas, including indoor and outdoor cats, and that the environment is treated as well.
  • Speak with your veterinarian about choosing the right flea treatment product. Common options include a topical, liquid treatment applied to the back of the neck, shampoos, sprays and powders. Some products kill both adult fleas and their eggs, but they can vary in efficacy. It is very important not to use products on your dog that are intended for cats (and vice versa). Prescription products are generally more effective and safer than over-the-counter products.
  • Thoroughly clean your house, including rugs, bedding and upholstery. (Remember to discard any vacuum bags.) In severe cases, you might consider using a spray or fogger, which requires temporary evacuation of the home.

How Can I Prevent Fleas?

Using a flea comb on your dog and washing his bedding once a week will go a long way toward controlling flea infestation. Also, it is important to treat your yard as thoroughly as your house. Concentrate on shady areas, where fleas live, and use an insecticide or nematodes, microscopic worms that kill flea larvae.

WebMD Veterinary Reference from ASPCA Virtual Pet Behaviorist

The ASPCA Virtual Pet Behaviorist specializes in the resolution and management of pet behavior problems only. Please do not submit questions about medical problems here. Only licensed veterinarians can diagnose medical conditions. If you think that your pet is sick, injured or experiencing any kind of physical distress, please contact his veterinarian immediately. A delay in seeking proper veterinary care may worsen your pet’s condition and put his life at risk. If you are concerned about the cost of veterinary care, please read our resources on finding financial help.

© 2009 ASPCA. All Rights Reserved.

To see this article on WebMD’s website please click here.

Protect your Manor Lake Austrailan Labradoodle by purchasing a flea preventative today. We have K9 Advantix available in our Manor Lake Dog Boutique.

Related Posts:

Grade Your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodles Dog Food

Wednesday, June 9th, 2010

What kind of dog food should I feed my Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle? Is a common question we’re asked, below is some information on how to grade dog food, it provides a detailed list of how many dog food brands scored. Remember feeding your pet a high quality dog food is very important to their health and well being. This information is from Play Dog Excellent’s Website- click here to see the article on their site.

How to grade your dog’s kibble (dry food): Start with a grade of 100, then:

  • For every listing of “by-product“, subtract 10 points
  • For every non-specific animal source (“meat” or “poultry”, meat, meal or fat) reference, subtract 10 points
  • If the food contains BHA, BHT, or ethoxyquin, subtract 10 points
  • For every grain “mill run” or non-specific grain source, subtract 5 points
  • If the same grain ingredient is used 2 or more times in the first five ingredients (i.e. “ground brown rice”, “brewers rice”, “rice flour” are all the same grain), subtract 5 points
  • If the protein sources are not meat meal and there are less than 2 meats in the top 3 ingredients, subtract 3 points
  • If it contains any artificial colorants, subtract 3 points
  • If it contains ground corn or whole grain corn, subtract 3points
  • If corn is listed in the top 5 ingredients, subtract 2 more points
  • If the food contains any animal fat other than fish oil, subtract 2 points
  • If lamb is the only animal protein source (unless your dog is allergic to other protein sources), subtract 2 points
  • If it contains soy or soybeans, subtract 2 points
  • If it contains wheat (unless you know that your dog is not allergic to wheat), subtract 2 points
  • If it contains beef (unless you know that your dog is not allergic to beef), subtract 1 point
  • If it contains salt (sodium chloride), subtract 1 point

Extra Credit:

  • If any of the meat sources are organic, add 5 points
  • If the food is endorsed by any major breed group or nutritionist, add 5 points
  • If the food is baked not extruded, add 5 points
  • If the food contains probiotics, add 3 points
  • If the food contains fruit, add 3 points
  • If the food contains vegetables (NOT corn or other grains), add 3 points
  • If the animal sources are hormone-free and antibiotic-free, add 2 points
  • If the food contains barley, add 2 points
  • If the food contains flax seed oil (not just the seeds), add 2 points
  • If the food contains oats or oatmeal, add 1 point
  • If the food contains sunflower oil, add 1 point
  • For every different specific animal protein source (other than the first one; count “chicken” and “chicken meal” as only one protein source, but “chicken” and “” as 2 different sources), add 1 point
  • If it contains glucosamine and chondroitin, add 1 point
  • If the vegetables have been tested for pesticides and are pesticide-free, add 1 point

Scoring:

  • 94-100+ = A
  • 86-93 = B
  • 78-85 = C
  • 70-77 = D
  • 69 and below = F

Here are some foods that have already been scored.

Brand/Formula Score Grade
Merrick Wilderness Blend 127 A+
Nature’s Variety Raw Instinct 122 A+
Innova Large Breed Puppy 122 A+
Dick Van Patten’s Natural Balance Ultra Premium 122 A+
Timberwolf Organics Wild & Natural Dry 120 A+
Nature’s Recipe Healthy Skin Venison and Rice 116 A+
Authority Harvest Baked 116 A+
Chicken Soup Senior 115 A+
Innova Evo 114 A+
Innova Dog 114 A+
Artemis Large/Medium Breed Puppy 114 A+
Canidae 112 A+
Wellness Super5 Mix Chicken 110 A+
Kirkland Signature Chicken, Rice, and Vegetables 110 A+
Premium Edge Chicken, Rice and Vegetables Adult Dry 109 A+
Burns Chicken and Brown Rice 107 A+
Royal Canin Natural Blend Adult 106 A+
Foundations 106 A+
Dick Van Patten’s Duck and Potato 106 A+
Dick Van Patten’s Natural Balance Venison and Brown Rice 106 A+
Blue Buffalo Chicken and Rice 106 A+
Nutro Ultra Adult 104 A+
Royal Canin Boxer 103 A+
ProPlan Natural Turkey & Barley 103 A+
EaglePack Holistic 102 A+
Nutro Natural Choice Oatmeal 101 A+
Nutrience Junior Medium Breed Puppy 101 A+
Flint River Senior 101 A+
Beowulf Back to Basics 101 A+
Royal Canin Bulldog 100 A+
Nature’s Recipe 100 A
Summit 99 A
Solid Gold 99 A
Diamond Large Breed 60+ Formula 99 A
Nutro Natural Choice Large Breed Lamb and Rice Puppy 98 A
Nutro Natural Choice Lamb and Rice 98 A
Wolfking Adult Dog (bison) by Solid Gold 97 A
Sensible Choice Chicken and Rice 97 A
Nutro Natural Choice Senior 95 A
Pro Plan Sensitive Stomach 94 A
Nutro Max Adult 93 B
Hund-n-Flocken Adult Dog (lamb) by Solid Gold 93 B
Authority Harvest Baked Less Active 93 B
Diamond Lamb Meal & Rice 92 B
Nutro Natural Choice Large Breed Puppy 87 B
Nutrisource Lamb and Rice 87 B
Nutro Natural Choice Puppy Wheat Free 86 B
Diamond Performance 85 C
Member’Mark Chicken and Rice 84 C
Blackwood 3000 Lamb and Rice 83 C
Nutra Nuggets Super Premium Lamb Meal and Rice 81 C
Eukanuba Adult 81 C
Alpo Prime Cuts 81 C
Pro Nature Puppy 80 C
Eukanuba Puppy 79 C
Iams Lamb Meal & Rice Formula Premium 73 D
Science Diet for Large Breed Puppies 69 F
Bil-Jac Select 68 F
Diamond Maintenance 64 F
Science Diet Advanced Protein Senior 7+ 63 F
Purina One Large Breed Puppy 62 F
Purina Dog 62 F
Pet Gold Adult with Lamb & Rice 23 F
Purina Beneful 17 F
Purina Come-n-Get It 16 F
Related Posts:

Pet Insurance

Friday, May 21st, 2010

Whether or not to purchase pet insurance for your Australian Labradoodle is a question we’re asked often, below is an article from DogChannel.com, they have put together a directory of  pet insurance companies that offer health care coverage for dogs. This is from the May 2009 issue of Dog Fancy Magazine (another one of our favorite dog magazines!).

Pet Insurance Directory
A comprehensive directory of pet insurance companies currently offering healthcare coverage.

American Kennel Club Pet Healthcare Plan
866-725-2747
www.akcpethealthcare.com

ASPCA Pet Health Insurance
866-861-9092
www.aspcapetinsurance.com

Embrace Pet Insurance
800-511-9172
www.embracepetinsurance.com

Hartville Pet Health Insurance
800-799-5852
www.hartvillepetinsurance.com

Pet Assure
888-789-7387
www.petassure.com

24PetWatch Pet Insurance
866-275-7387
www.24petwatch.com/petinsurance

PetFirst Healthcare
866-937-7387
www.petfirsthealthcare.com

Petplan Pet Insurance
866-467-3875
www.gopetplan.com

Pets Best Insurance
877-738-7237
www.petsbest.com

Petshealth Care Plan
800-807-6724
www.petshealthplan.com

PurinaCare Pet Health Insurance
877-878-7462
www.purinacare.com

Trupanion Pet Insurance
800-569-7913
www.trupanionpetinsurance.com

Veterinary Pet Insurance
888-899-4874
www.petinsurance.com

For more information on your dog’s insurance options,
check out the May 2009 issue of DOG FANCY.

Click here to read the article on DogChannel.com’s website.

Related Posts:

10 Things Not To Do in Your vet’s Waiting Room

Tuesday, April 27th, 2010

Another great website that has a lot of information is PetMD.com- they have a lot of articles on pet health and have a blog with interesting articles. We came across this article and thought it was a great one to share with our Manor Lake Austrailan Labradoodle puppy/dog families when visiting the vet.

Top 10 things NOT to do in your veterinarian’s waiting room

Ever walked into a vet’s waiting room only to run smack into an aggressive dog straining against the full length of his Flexi-leash? Or seen a pet owner holding her cat in her lap, otherwise unrestrained? How about the pet owners bringing six dogs at a time, unable to control them all? Or the parent whose four children run amok in the small space.

As with everything in life there is a right way and a wrong way to approach it. The veterinary waiting room is no different.

Sure, veterinary hospitals need to make their waiting areas hospitable, manageable and safe. And when they have little space to work, with the staff should offer alternatives for pet owners whose pets are anxious, aggressive or poorly contained. But that doesn’t mean you get a pass when it comes to exercising some common sense and exhibiting basic courtesy at the vet’s place.

But it’s true that one man’s common sense and courtesy is another’s opportunity for genuine cluelessness. We don’t all know what’s expected of us. That’s why I’ve put together this quick list of what NOT to do in your veterinarian’s waiting room.

#10 Don’t fail to contain your cats. Even if your cat is the sweetest thing on record, some other animals may not agree. The last thing we want is to see in our lobbies is an altercation in which one animal dies. Cat carriers are cheap and widely available. Use them.

#9 Don’t give dogs free reign. The business end of the leash should be in your hands, not at your dog’s head. If you can’t keep him close and controlled then it’s time to ask the receptionist if there’s a better place for your pet to wait.

#8 Don’t use Flexi-leads. OK, so that’s not exactly fair. Flexis have their place. But it’s not at the vet’s. If you must use them, make sure you know how they work and keep your pets in tight.

#7 Don’t do the meet-and-greet thing. The vet’s is not the dog park (although you can find some great ones near you with the PetMD Finder). It’s a strange environment in which pets don’t always act the way you expect them to. Moreover, in a veterinary hospital the onus is on us to keep your dogs safe. Legally, we’re liable if your dogs fight. Please keep pets apart. No matter how well you know your pet, can you honestly say you know someone else’s?

#6 Don’t pet other pets. Again, the vet’s place is a strange and stressful environment. And yes, if you get bit it’s on our dime––not to mention our conscience.

#5 Don’t walk into a packed exam room. If the exam room is wall-to-wall pets, don’t chance it. Make a call on your cell phone or ask someone to let the receptionist know you’re waiting outside.

#4 Don’t fail to tell the receptionist ahead of time if your pet is severely anxious or aggressive. All hospitals appreciate the warning when you make your appointment. It gives us a chance to offer you back-door alternatives or other concessions to your pet’s unique behavior issues.

#3 Don’t bring small children unless you can’t help it. A busy animal hospital is tough on small kids. They’re not old enough to benefit enough from the educational experience relative to their risk of getting hurt. We worry.

#2 Don’t be rude. Courtesy is king. Silence is golden (within reason). And all that stuff. I don’t have to tell you that, but this post wouldn’t be complete without it.

#1 Don’t be shy. Ask for what you need. If your pet is freaking out, you should let someone know (if it isn’t obvious). We want your pet to be as comfy as possible and it’s not going to happen unless we know about it.

Oh, don’t forget to email me (p.khuly@petmd.com) the topics you’d most like to hear about––medical, money, ethical or otherwise––and prepare yourself for my opinionated answers.

To see the full article on PetMD’s blog click here

Related Posts:

What to Do About Dog Urine Burns on Your Lawn

Tuesday, March 16th, 2010

Recently we received an email from a Manor Lake client who asked about if dog urine can burn their lawn- we thought we would do a little research on the topic. Dog.com is a good website that provides helpful information, below is an article we found that they wrote.

What to Do About Urine Burns on Your Lawn

Articles are for informational purposes only. Please consult your veterinarian for questions or concerns regarding your pet.

Leaving your dog out in the yard to relieve himself may be easier than getting the dog leash and taking him out for a walk, but it can lead to a barrage of unsightly yellow spots on your lawn. These spots appear because the urine eventually kills the grass in your yard. These problems are found more frequently in houses with large female dogs.

Many people believe that these spots occur because the urine is acidic and caustic to the grass. As a result of this, a number of pet owners have added baking soda, tomato juice or vitamin C to their dog’s diet. This theory may work at times, but is usually somewhat ineffective because the additives make the dog thirstier and the increase of water consumption dilutes the urine. The real villain in this story is nitrogen.

Dogs are carnivores and therefore eat a diet that consists of high levels of protein. When the proteins are broken down they are excreted as nitrogen in the urine. The overload of nitrogen is what essentially kills the grass in your yard; the same type of burn will occur if a concentrated handful of fertilizer is left in one spot. The urine spots often feature a green halo around the outside where the urine was diluted enough to act as a fertilizer. These rings are used to distinguish urine burns from a type of grub infestation which will also create a similar looking brown spot.

Spots may become worse due to a number of other factors. For example, urine burns tend to be worse with female dogs because they squat and deposit the urine in one place. They are also worse with larger dogs because they release a larger quantity of urine. Fertilizing your lawn regularly can overload the level of nitrogen faster and may cause spotting. Grasses like bluegrass or Bermuda grass are much more sensitive to nitrogen than other types. Recently sodded or seeded lawns, as well as ones stressed from drought are often more susceptible to urine spots.

Adding water to your pet’s diet can help dilute urine, leading to less concentrated nitrogen deposits and a less affected lawn. Canned dog food has a lot more water in it but it also has its drawbacks. Feeding a high quality diet may also help since the protein is more digestible and there are fewer waste products. Watering the yard daily helps in some cases but it may not be enough; if you are using fertilizer, you should probably stop, for the sake of your lawn.

It is also important to consult with your veterinarian before making changes to your dog’s diet.

Click HERE to see the article on Dog.com

Revival Animal online also has an all natural supplement you can give to your dog to help with lawn burning called Grass Saver. It is also important to consult with your vet before adding this into your dog’s diet.

Related Posts:

Exercise and your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle

Monday, February 8th, 2010

We follow Cesar Millan on Twitter and the other day he tweeted about too much exercise for dogs- we thought this was interesting so we thought we would share it with you. Many families ask us about the amount of exercise their puppy should receive when they get them. Let us know if you think it was helpful!

Ask the Vet: Puppies and Exercise

Is there such a thing as TOO much exercise for a dog? For puppies?

I have always adhered to the theory that, as long as you are careful, the dog is the best one to tell you what is too much exercise. Puppies often do not have enough muscle tone to take long runs, but there are always exceptions. Most dogs and puppies will tell you when they have hit their limit, and it is important to resist pushing them beyond this point.

Even if your dog or puppy wants to keep going, some things you should be cautious about are:

1. Be sure that your dog does not overheat. If you are too hot, assume they are. Provide water or try to run in a cooler area.

2. Be consistent with exercise. The weekend marathon after a week of couch potato life is very hard on the joints.

3. Be cautious with your dog’s feet. Running on cement (especially hot cement) can cause sloughing of the foot pads, so try to have breaks on softer surfaces or at least work your dog up to the harder surfaces to give them a chance to form the necessary calluses.

4. Be aware of your dog’s limits. Until you understand your dog’s stamina, be sure that you are able to stop when your dog starts to lag behind. (i.e., Take the short route 5 times instead of the long route once.) If you feel that he or she is not able to go as far as they should, consult a vet to see if there is a reason for the intolerance.

About Dr. Sherry Weaver
Dr. Weaver graduated with honors from the University of Georgia’s School of Veterinary Medicine.  She founded a state of the art animal hospital that teaches pet care to children, and donates time and resources to rescue organizations.

http://www.cesarsway.com/askthevet/basicadvice/puppies-exercise

How much exercise should a puppy get?

Agree with the answer but they forgot to add if you have a large breed puppy you should wait until the growth plates have closed in their joints before hard exercise. The growth plated close at about 18 months too two years old.Non forced exercise is great but no bicycle,roller blades,running,jogging until 18 months to two years old.After that age all bets are off go for it but it helps to get them into condition first.You just don’t want your best friend to have joint problems before its time.

Related Posts:


  • follow:follow:
  • Bellingham Landscaping