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Classes and Training for your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle in Seattle

Friday, March 12th, 2010

Live in the Seattle area? You might want to check out the Seattle Humane Society’s Classes and Training programs.  They look like a lot fun and would be something that benefits you and your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle. Classes include-

  • Doga: Yoga with Your Dog
  • Single Session Workshops and Seminars
  • Flyball
  • Foundation Dog Training: Puppy Head Start, Puppy Manners, Dog Manners & NEW Double Dog Manners
  • Continuing Dog Training: Super Puppy, Super Manners & CANINE Good Citizen
  • Advanced Dog Training: Manners About Town & NEW Control Unleashed!
  • Agility
  • Playgroups
  • Reactive Rover: Managing On Leash Dog-to-Dog Aggression
  • Pet First Aid

For more information on these classes click HERE. Be sure to let us know how they go if you attend any!

Posted in Australian Labradoodles, Labradoodle Advice, Labradoodle Training, Manor Lake Customers | No Comments »

Australian Labradoodle Puppy Mouthing

Monday, December 14th, 2009

Good information on Australian Labradoodle puppy mouthing – please see our other doodle blog articles on puppy mouthing as well.

Puppy Mouthing

Saving your hands and your sanity
Karen B. London, PhD | 14 Dec 2009

Puppies use each other as chew toys, so when they move away from their littermates and start hanging out with humans, it is only natural that they should continue their mouthy ways. Trouble is, we humans have skin that is so very delicate. In fact, it breaks when our puppies chew on it, and that is no good for anybody.

There are many suggestions for stopping puppy mouthing, and only some work for each puppy. My favorite, which I consider the standard technique for stopping puppy mouthing, is the startle and redirect method. This strategy consists of making a high-pitched sound that is best written as “AWRP!” This sound startles most puppies enough to make them release their hold on you. Then, you redirect your puppy’s mouth to something appropriate to chew on, such as a chew toy or other toy. Many people are really good about remembering to startle but then forget to redirect their puppy to something that can be chewed. The result of this mistake is that the puppy goes back to mouthing the person’s hands or clothing and the person thinks the technique doesn’t work.

There are other effective ways of dealing with puppy mouthing, but I advise against any aversive methods, even if they are commonly advised. For example, don’t hold the puppy’s mouth shut or stick your fingers in it, yell, or use physical force to stop the dog. Basically, anything that frightens or hurts the dog is not an option.

The Bark Magazine online- http://www.thebark.com/content/puppy-mouthing

Puppy Mouthing and How To Stop It

When puppies are still with their littermates, they use each other’s bodies as toys. Therefore, it is hardly surprising that they use their mouths on us—most frequently on our arms, hands, and clothes. Though this is natural dog behavior, dogs must learn to interact in ways that are appropriate in the human world. Since mouthing people is not acceptable, what can be done to stop this behavior and teach our dogs that this is unacceptable behavior?

One useful method is to startle and then redirect the puppy, which is an ethologically useful technique, because it is based on puppies’ natural behavior when interacting with littermates. When littermates play together, they use their mouths to tug or gnaw on ears, tails, paws, and loose skin anywhere. If one puppy mouths too hard, the puppy that got hurt will yelp and move away from the puppy who was too rough. The puppy who was too rough has to go find someone else to play with, but has started to learn that mouthing too hard results in playtime being interrupted.

To simulate this behavior with a puppy, if a puppy mouths too hard, simply yelp with a puppy-like sound (Aaarp! is the closest description of this sound that can be spelled), and then, when the puppy releases its mouth from the person, immediately put something that the puppy can chew into its mouth. Possible objects for redirection include bones, rawhides, Kongs®, Goodie Balls®, squeakie toys, and stuffed animals.

A common mistake when using this method is making the yelping Aaarp! sound and then failing to redirect the puppy’s mouth to something appropriate. In most cases, the sound will startle the puppy, who will stop mouthing the person, but then will go right back to the inappropriate behavior unless given another, more appropriate object to chew on.

Over 90 percent of puppies respond to this method to stop puppy mouthing if it is used consistently over several weeks, but the remaining few dogs seem to get worse in response to those high-pitched yelps and are not responsive to attempts to redirect them. If after three or so attempts with this method, it becomes apparent that the dog is responding to the yelps by getting even mouthier and more revved up, don’t keep trying it. If it doesn’t work right away, it is not going to work at a later point, and it’s time to try something else.

Some dogs respond to being startled and redirected as long as the startling sound is not a high-pitched “Aaarp!” but rather a deep-voiced sound such as “Hey!” or “Stop!” Otherwise, the technique of interrupting the behavior and then redirecting the dog’s mouth to an appropriate object is the same. If the yelp does not work, this deeper-pitched startling vocalization followed by a redirection is the very next thing to try.

There are many suggestions for stopping puppy mouthing that I would never recommended either because they are inhumane, ineffective, or both. For example, do not hold the muzzle closed, yell at the dog, jam fingers into the inside of the dog’s mouth, or swat the dog. Basically, this comes down to one piece of general advice: Don’t do anything that involves any kind of physical punishment, pain or frightening the dog.

–Karen B. London
The Dog Behavior Blog
http://www.dogbehaviorblog.com/2009/12/puppy-mouthing-and-how-to-stop-it.html

Posted in Australian Labradoodles, Labradoodle Health, Labradoodle Puppies, Labradoodle Training, Manor Lake, Manor Lake Customers | No Comments »

Teaching a Soft Mouth For Your Australian Labradoodle Puppy

Wednesday, November 11th, 2009

Another article on Australian Labradoodle puppy mouthing.

Young puppies not only bite, but they mouth.  Teaching your puppy to have a soft mouth is an important part of your puppies development.  A soft mouth is where no pressure or pain is applied by your puppy when they are grasping your hand.   You will need to teach your puppy  that they cannot use their teeth to grasp, manipulate or gain control over any item (other than their toys) or your hand. 

Begin petting your puppy and as soon as he begins using his mouth and applying any pressure say “OUCH” .  Once your puppy stops, work with him on a ”sit” and reward him with a treat.  If “OUCH” doesn’t stop your puppy then you will have to create some fake pain and associated yelps.  A sharp high pitch yelp, similar to what his siblings would make, and pulling back on your hand at the same time should do the trick.  Stop all interaction with the puppy.  This is what a sibling would do when nipped too hard.  After 30 seconds,  return to your puppy and start playtime again and repeat the above steps if your puppy uses force with his teeth or nips.  Your puppy will learn quickly that nips and bites stop playtime.

Your puppy doesn’t know the difference between your hand, furniture and clothes, so don’t allow him to bite any of these things except for his toys.

Posted in Australian Labradoodles, Labradoodle Advice, Labradoodle Health, Labradoodle Puppies, Labradoodle Training | No Comments »

How to Certify Your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle as a Therapy Dog

Wednesday, August 19th, 2009

How to Get Your Australian Labradoodle Certified As A Therapy Dog

Therapy dogs provide an important and rewarding job for both the dog and the owner. If you are interested in your pet becoming a certified therapy dog you first need to make sure your dog is best suited for this type of work. Therapy dogs should be well trained and friendly. The dog should not be frightened of strangers or new situations and should enjoy going out and visiting new and unfamiliar places.

For certification, your dog will need to be in good health and up to date in all vaccinations. You should receive a health certificate from your veterinarian. Of course, make sure that your dog is well trained. Good therapy dogs need to be able to sit, lie down and stay on command and to walk on a leash without pulling.

If your dog’s health and temperament fit those of a therapy dog the next step is to get him certified. Most therapy groups require that your dog pass the American Kennel Club’s Canine Good Citizen (CGC) test. To find a testing site and evaluator visit http://www.akc.org/events/cgc/cgc_bystate.cfm

The CGC test consists of the following 10 items that your dog must pass:
  • Accepting a friendly stranger
  • Sitting politely for petting
  • Appearance and grooming
  • Walking on a loose lead
  • Walking through a crowd
  • Sit and stay commands
  • Coming when called
  • Reaction to another dog
  • Reaction to distraction
  • Supervised separation from owner
Depending on the therapy organization that you are seeking certification from, there may be additional requirements beyond the CGC test. Check with the individual organization for their specific requirements.
http://www.wellnesspetfood.com/resources_and_education/article26.html

Posted in Australian Labradoodles, Labradoodle Advice, Labradoodle Training, Manor Lake, Manor Lake Customers, Purchasing A Labradoodle | No Comments »

Postive Training for Your Australian Labradoodle Puppy

Wednesday, May 20th, 2009

I recommend positive training for all our Australian Labradoodle puppies and think that the best way to train one of our Australian Labradoodle puppies is to use lots of encouragement, praise and rewards (small puppy treats - I like Wellness Well Bites) with your training.  You can start training your Australian Labradoodle puppy as early as 9 weeks.  Our Australian Labradoodle puppies are eager to please and make great training candidates.  With their sharp minds and keen interest, you will find they learn rapidly.  You will want to make sure that you set your Australian Labradoodle puppy up to succeed by concentrating on developing desirable habits and also preventing undesirable behavior from the start.  It is much easier to start your Australian Labradoodle puppy on the right track than to go back later and try and correct problem behaviors.  Start with easy, basic commands – my favorite to start with is the “sit” command.  Keeping your training sessions short, fun and consistent is the key – you may want to start with 4 to 5 minutes with lots of repetition and praising each small success.  If your puppy learns to love his/her training sessions, you will find his/her confidence growing with each session.  Do not worry about small setbacks or mistakes, your puppy is young and immature and will certainly have a few slip ups.  Remember to be kind, caring and patient and you will be rewarded with a special bond for life.

Kim Kochman
Owner/Breeder
Manor Lake Australian Labradoodles
www.manorlakelabradoodles.com

Posted in Australian Labradoodles, Labradoodle Puppies, Labradoodle Training | No Comments »

Find Out If Your Australian Labradoodle Is A Genius

Thursday, May 7th, 2009

Awesome article about your Australian Labradoodle’s memory
Is Your Dog a Genius?

Test Your Dog’s Memory

By Stanley Coren

You only go to the vet maybe once a year for those regular check-ups and booster shots, but, sure enough, whenever you get within five blocks of the vet’s office, your dog starts whining, panting, and looking anxious. Does she really remember from year to year the exact route you drive to get there?

Most people are interested in how intelligent their dog is. While there are predictable differences based upon the dog’s breed (for example, Border Collies are a lot smarter and more trainable than Bulldogs), there is a lot of variability within each breed. This means that some Border Collies might be rather slow-thinking, while some Bulldogs might be college material. There are some well-documented tests for the general mental abilities of dogs (such as the one described in my book, The Intelligence of Dogs), and all such tests include measures of a dog’s memory.

Memory is a critical component of dog intelligence, since your dog can’t learn if she can’t remember. This makes tests of a dog’s memory a good approximation of just how bright she is in general. However, memory changes with age. Older dogs show symptoms that are similar to the memory losses found in older humans, and severe cases show memory declines similar to those found in Alzheimer’s Disease (in dogs, it is called “Canine Cognitive Dysfunction”).

Whether you are merely curious about your dog’s memory ability or worried about possible memory loss in an older dog, here is a simple test that you can give your dog at home. Two conditions must be met for the test to be valid.

First, your dog (to be original, let’s call her “Lassie”) must be at least a year old. It is also necessary for Lassie to have been living in the same place for at least ten weeks; otherwise the environmental memory test won’t work. You’ll need a stopwatch or a watch with a second hand, and an assistant to hold the dog is helpful.

Short-term memory
The first test looks at short-term memory. You may observe failures in your own short term memory in situations when you ask for a phone number from an operator and correctly dial it immediately, meaning that the number is stored in your short-term memory. However, when you get a busy signal and hang up to dial the number again, you often find you’ve forgotten the number, since short-term memory fades quickly.

The test requires an average-sized room that doesn’t have a lot of furniture or other material cluttering it. You need a tidbit of food that has no strong odour (otherwise, Lassie’s scenting ability will bias the results). If Lassie will not reliably sit and stay on command, have a helper present to hold her.

To start, place Lassie on a leash, and have her sit in the center of the room. While she watches you, show her the treat, then, with a great exaggerated show (but no sound), place the tidbit in a corner, making sure that she sees you put it down. Lead her out of the room, walk around in a small circle, and then bring her back to the center of the room. Leaving the room and returning to it should take no more than about fifteen seconds. Slip the leash off the dog, and start the stopwatch.

Scoring
If Lassie goes directly to the bait, score 5.
If she systematically sniffs around the edge of the room and finds the tidbit, score 4.
If she seems to search in a random fashion but nevertheless finds the tidbit within 45 seconds, score 3.
If she appears to try to find the tidbit but still hasn’t succeeded after 45 seconds, score 2.
If she makes no effort to find the bait, score 1.

Long-term memory
The next test looks at long-term memory, which is relatively permanent and long lasting. Give this test immediately after the preceding test. The set-up is identical to the short term memory test. Make sure, however, that you place the tidbit in a different corner than the one you used for the short-term memory test. Take Lassie out of the room and keep her out of the room for five minutes. Then return her to the center of the room, slip off the leash, and start the stopwatch.

Scoring
If Lassie goes directly to the bait, score 5.
If she goes to the corner where the first bait was and then quickly goes to the correct corner, score 4.
If she systematically sniffs around the edge of the room and finds the tidbit, score 3.
If she seems to search in a random fashion but still finds the tidbit within 45 seconds, score 2.
If she appears to try to find the tidbit but still hasn’t succeeded after 45 seconds, score 1.
If she makes no effort to find the bait, score 0.

Environmental memory
This next test looks at environmental memory, which simply means how well your dog remembers the world around her. While Lassie is out of the house, rearrange the furniture in a roo that is familiar to her. For example, you could bring a few additional chairs into the room, move a large piece of furniture toward the center of the room, place a coffee table in an odd corner, move a side table to the center of the room, or create several other obvious disturbances of the usual pattern of furniture placement. Try to make sure that at least five things are obviously different in the room. Then bring Lassie into the room and start your stopwatch while you stand quietly.

Scoring
If Lassie notices something is different within 15 seconds and starts to explore or sniff any changed aspect of the room, score 5.
If she notices the differences and checks out any one changed aspect of the room in 15 to 30 seconds, score 4.
If she does so in thirty to sixty seconds, score 3.
If she looks around cautiously, seems to notice something is different, but does not explore any changed aspect of the room, score 2.
If a minute passes, and she still ignores the changes, score 1.

Alternate choice memory
The final test involves alternate choice memory, or how well the dog remembers one of several possibilities. For this test, you need three identical, empty tin cans or plastic cups. Rub the inside of each with the tidbit of food that you will be using as bait, so that Lassie can’t use smell to guide her choice. Next, while she watches, show her the empty cans and arrange them in a row upside-down with about one foot (30 cm) between each. With exaggerated movements, show her the treat, then lift the middle can and place the treat under it. Slip the leash off and let her go. Whether she actually gets the treat or not by knocking over the can is irrelevant for this test, but note the attention that she pays to each can.

Scoring
If Lassie goes directly to the middle can, score 5.
If she goes to one of the outside cans first, then shifts her attention and starts nosing the middle can while ignoring the others, score 4.
If she sniffs at all three cans and then returns to pay attention to the middle can, score 3.
If she circles the cans sniffing or poking at each indiscriminately, score 2.
If she wanders around or ignores the cans, score 1.

What the score means
Add the scores from the four tests. If your dog scores 17 to 20, her memory is extremely good. Scores from 13 to 16 are above average, while 9 to 12 are average. Scores of 6 to 8 are borderline, while scores of 5 or less would place a dog in the bottom 10 percent of all dogs.

Although it is simply fun to know how good your dog’s memory is, it is also a useful thing to measure your dog’s memory when she is a healthy adult. You will then have a score to use as a reference to see if your dog’s memory is declining as she grows older.

If your dog’s memory is good, it will be easier for her to learn. If your dog’s memory is bad, it will be easier for her to forget that she was pinched or pulled by a particular child. She will also be less likely to remember that she should be still bearing a grudge against you for a late dinner or a missed walk-or that last trip to the vet. ■

Stanley Coren is Professor of Psychology at the University of British Columbia and author of several books on dogs, including The Intelligence of Dogs and How Dogs Think. His website is stanleycoren.com

This article is from the Modern Dog Website-http://www.moderndogmagazine.com/articles/your-dog-genius/145

Posted in Australian Labradoodles, Labradoodle Training, Manor Lake Customers | 1 Comment »

Puppy Mouthing and Nipping for Australian Labradoodles

Tuesday, May 5th, 2009

We frequently get questions about puppies mouthing and nipping – the below is an article with some good tips.

NIPPING THE HAND THAT FEEDS YOU

This article is in response to the many, many, questions I have received about nipping problems in puppies. It’s a common problem. I hope the following will help explain why it is so common and how to turn the behavior into something more agreeable for everyone.

WHY PUPPIES NIP:

Dogs live their life without our most useful “tool” – opposable thumbs. We can grasp and hold things to feel and examine them; dogs use their mouths to explore their world. Puppies have a lot to learn. Not only do they have to learn how to be dogs, but they also must learn how to live with humans. That can be the hardest part! We, as humans, also have to learn somewhat how dogs work, and the communication gap can be enormous!

One of the biggest tools puppies have to learn with is their mouth – not only for vocalization, but to touch and feel and explore…and test their limits! Think about a litter of puppies playing. They are rough and tumble – they bite, nibble, and bark. If one puppy bites another too hard, the bitten puppy lets out a screech which usually is successful in getting the hard nipper to temper his bites. This is how they LEARN, and a BIG part of learning is DOING IT WRONG! This is how anyone, including a puppy, can learn to DO IT RIGHT. If a puppy isn’t doing something wrong, he cannot be shown what right is.

Puppies will test their limits with you, too. Nipping and mouthing is a big part of that testing. They mouth and grab hands, pant legs, skirts, etc. Part of how you teach a puppy to temper their biting lies back with how his litter mates taught him – a shrill shriek “OW!!” to let him know he’s gone too far – even if it didn’t hurt that much. One thing that you are responsible for training this puppy – that should start EARLY- is that UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES should that puppy’s teeth touch your bare skin. Now, I know Lab owners are going to say “my puppy enjoys taking my hand into his mouth sometimes”. Dogs understand ALWAYS or NEVER, YES or NO. They do not understand SOMETIMES and MAYBE! You will be giving your dog too much human reasoning by letting him decide when it is appropriate to take your hand in his mouth or to nibble your hand!

WAYS TO TEACH “NICE”
I like the word “nice” or “easy” when I teach a dog to respect my skin. If my puppy gets wild and nippy, I will take his collar (after I let out a big “Ow!!” for nipping too hard) and give it a little tug and offer my hand back to the puppy and tell him, in a firm voice, “NO, NICE!” If the puppy nips again, I repeat the command and tug a little firmer, “I said “NO, NICE!” If the puppy licks your hand, sniffs it, or turns his head away, I tell him “Good, NICE!!” and make sure my voice sounds pleased. Each time the puppy gets away with a nip without working your “NICE” command means he has learned that he can, in fact, get away with nipping – and he will continue to do it.
 
 

 

You can also “set up” teaching “NICE” to your dog (as opposed to waiting for it to happen). I get a bunch of small, soft treats (small and soft means that the puppy will not forget why he got the treat if all he has to do is swallow it. He will forget if you give him a biscuit and it takes him 3 minutes to chew it up!) and hold one in the fingers of one hand. In the other hand – I have the puppy’s collar, and he is sitting close to me. I offer the treat to the puppy and remind him that we are being “NICE”. If he lunges for the treat, I give him a tug on his collar and remind him, “NO, NICE!” The same goes if he grabs the treat and any part of my hand or fingers. (Note: the hand that is holding the treat remains stationary It is the hand holding the puppy that will move and tug the puppy away from the food. If you move your “food hand”, you will encourage the puppy to chase the treat – dogs like moving objects.) With this exercise, the puppy will eventually learn to take the treat without even touching your skin with his teeth.

HEADING OFF TROUBLE:
Now, after all this – some big “NO NOs” that will undermine your attempts to have what we call “bite inhibition” (in other words, what you were just taught to teach your puppy). NEVER, NEVER, play hand games that will rile up your puppy and encourage him to lunge for your hand, or any other part of your body. That is not part of teaching ALWAYS or NEVER! Chase games, especially for herding dogs (German Shepherds, Bouviers, Collies, Shelties, Border Collies, Corgis, etc.) will also encourage them to nip and bite at legs and heels. Not good! The best games to play are games involving fetch and toys. One trainer says that any time you play with your dog, make sure you have a toy between you and the puppy. NEVER play tug of war with your puppy – that will only make your puppy think of himself as your equal! The only time I will play tug of war is when I have a wimpy puppy – but I always start the game, and I always finish it too. I also make sure I have taught my puppy a firm “Out” , “Release”, or “Drop it!” command to make sure I don’t have a problem or confrontation when I want the toy back.
 
 

 

Remember, you’re in charge!
Your puppy looks to you for consistent – and persistent - training.

Pam Young, LVT CDBC CPDT  
Dog Gone Good LLC
Dog Behavior Consultant
Personal Dog Trainer
Copyright 1996- 2006, Pam Young 
Dog Training Basics
www.dogtrainingbasics.com 
All Rights Reserved

Posted in Australian Labradoodles, Labradoodle Advice, Labradoodle Puppies, Labradoodle Training | No Comments »

Urban Dog Etiquette For Your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle

Thursday, March 19th, 2009

How to properly promenade your pooch in public

City-dwelling dogkeepers are faced with greater challenges than their suburban and rural counterparts. Without a large, fenced yard for exercise, the city dweller must take to the streets three or more times a day with Fido or Fifi in tow. Crowded sidewalks replete with joggers, construction scaffolding and double-wide strollers turn each outing into an obstacle course. The following tips will make walks safer and more enjoyable for you, your dog and your neighbors.

It’s the law

Most cities and counties have some form of leash, license and pick-up-after-your-dog laws. These ordinances are designed to protect both the dog and the community at large. When leashed, a dog is safe from traffic and unable to follow his instincts to chase children, investigate garbage cans or dig up landscaping. Whether a dog is friendly or aggressive, a leash keeps him in check and allows the public to pass undisturbed. Some communities have leash-length restrictions. Whether it’s the law or not, keep leashes to six feet or less on public sidewalks. Retractable leashes should not be used in areas frequented by joggers, skaters or cyclists; the thin line blends into the background and,all too often, athlete and dog collide.

Licensing a dog enables an animal control agency to return a lost pet to his rightful owner. Also, licensing fees often support local animal control efforts. In addition, the number of licenses issued gives government officials an idea of how many dogs are in the community, statistics that are very helpful when planning dog runs, shelter expansions and the like.

Pooper-scooper laws are essential for both the health and beautification of the community. Canine diseases and parasites are often shed in feces, which puts other dogs and children at risk. And no one enjoys maneuvering through unsightly piles of dog waste when out for a stroll. Pick up feces using a plastic bag, and knot the top to control odor and flies before disposing of it in a waste receptacle. Train your dog to urinate in gutters or on nonliving vertical surfaces, such as lampposts or hydrants. Avoid trees and flowerbeds.

Etiquette lessons and safety tips

The well-trained city dog needs to respond to a minimum of four basic commands: “Sit-Stay,” “Heel,” “Leave it” and “Come.” When you’re waiting at a traffic light, a dog in a sitstay is out of harm’s way. And while walking nicely on a loose leash is enough for most forays, there are times when your dog will need to be at heel position, which keeps her under control at your side.

The command “Leave it” is employed when it is necessary for Fido to avert his gaze. Whether he’s being tantalized by chicken bones or a jogger, getting your dog to break eye contact with “forbidden fruit” before he acts enables you to draw his attention to safer rewards and pursuits. Or, should the dog slip his collar or break his leash, a recall command (“Come”) could save his life. Most, if not all, of these commands are taught in basic obedience/manners class. Contact your local shelter for a referral to a class near you.

Remember that dogs can be frightened by sudden loud noises, such as running children, motorcycles, skateboarders and in-line skaters, to name a few. Be aware that such situations may demand quick and complete control on your part to prevent your dog from lunging or biting.

Before leaving home to run errands with your dog by your side, take a moment to consider which places permit dogs and which do not. For your pet’s safety, leave him at home when he is not allowed to go into an establishment with you. A dog left tied to a post or parking meter is an easy target for teasing or theft.

Remember the good neighbor policy

Keep in mind that not everyone loves dogs, so it’s up to the urban dogkeeper to present a dog who is well-socialized and under control. When riding in an elevator, sit your dog in a far corner to avoid door-dashing each time the elevator makes a stop. Do not allow Fido to jump up on other riders, even when the greeting is friendly. Hurry through lobbies or take freight elevators and back exits if the building rules mandate it. Never allow your dog to soil in front of the building’s entrance. If you have a young pup or dog-in-training who can’t control himself, be sure to carry paper towels and odor neutralizer.

Many dogs enjoy the company of other canines, but always ask before allowing your animal to launch himself at another dog—for both their sakes. The same is true regarding children. First ask the child or her parent, “May my dog say hello to you?” before allowing physical contact. The greeting should not include jumping, bouncing off or grabbing at the child—even if it is done in the spirit of friendliness. If your dog is physically challenging, consider using a head halter for better control.

When we choose to keep dogs in crowded urban areas, we take on additional responsibilities. Unfortunately, when little consideration is shown for the neighbors, more doors close to dogkeepers. On the other hand, with a little training and thoughtfulness, more businesses and public areas will begin to put out the welcome mat for both you and your dog.

Posted in Australian Labradoodles, Labradoodle Advice, Labradoodle Training, Manor Lake, Manor Lake Customers, Purchasing A Labradoodle | No Comments »

Fun Activities For Your Kids and Your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle

Wednesday, March 11th, 2009

Healthy play habits between kids and family pets don’t always come naturally—children need guidance in interacting safely and respectfully with animals. Luckily the best way to learn how to play nice is to enjoy lots of great games together. ASPCA behaviorists offer some fun, age-appropriate activities that help develop trust and a loving bond between your kids and pets.

Play Time

Arrange play dates for your kids and pets—supervised by you—to help build a mutual respect in the same way that play dates between children create healthy friendships.

Activities

Kids 6 Months To 2 Years Old:

  • Your child can lie on the floor and your dog or cat can jump over him.
  • You and your child can hide and then call your pet to come find you.
  • Young children love peek-a-boo games. Try holding up a cloth so that your pet is concealed. Let your child pull the cloth aside, making your pet “appear.”
  • If your pet is gentle, your child can smear his own fingers and toes with peanut butter or a soft cheese product and let your pet lick them clean. (Try this with your fingers first. If your pet’s nibbling is too rough, choose another activity.)
  • Children in a high chair, crib or playpen can drop food for your pet to enjoy, but please avoid using animal treats because your child might eat them. It is also ESSENTIAL to avoid using foods that are dangerous to pets. Stick to healthy people food such as green beans, carrot sticks, apple slices (without seeds), unsalted pretzels and plain, cooked pasta.

Kids 3 To 8 Years Old:

  • Your child and dog can race with each other to a designated finish line. If necessary, you can run with your dog on a leash.
  • Your child can throw a toy for your pet to retrieve.
  • Armed with treats, your child can hide while you stay with your pet. When your child calls out, let your pet go search for him. When your pet finds him, let your child give the treats as a reward.
  • If your dog likes to chase water sprayed from a hose or water gun, your child can operate the sprayer or toy gun. While you’re supervising, have your child spray the ground a few feet away from your dog and then rapidly move the stream of water away from her, along the ground. (Watch your dog for signs that she’s not having fun anymore. If she isn’t actively chasing or trying to bite the stream of water, it’s time to stop.)
  • Your child can blow bubbles for your pet to catch. You can purchase a bubble toy made especially for dogs, such as the Fetch a Bubble Big Bubble Blaster or the Bubble Buddy™. These toys produce flavored bubbles that are safe for dogs to ingest. Please do not use regular bubble solution. It can cause mild stomach upset and can sting your pet’s eyes.
  • Your child and pet can team up to find treats that you’ve hidden. While your pet can excel at finding things hidden near the ground, your child can find things hidden higher-up.
  • Your child can entice your pet to chase a toy tied to the end of a rope. You can also buy an inexpensive lunge whip from a horse tack or feed store and tie a ball or other toy to the end of it. Then your child can twirl the whip in a big circle and let your pet chase the toy.

Kids 9 To 13 Years Old:

  • Children of this age can benefit from attending basic dog obedience classes with their dogs.
  • Your child can play soccer-type games and Frisbee with your dog.
  • Some children appreciate the challenge of competing with a dog in agility or in games such as flyball.
  • Your child can search the Internet or library to find new tricks to teach your pet, such as Roll Over, Shake, Sit Up and Beg.

http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/kids-and-pets/fun-activities-for-kids-and-pets.html

Posted in Australian Labradoodles, Labradoodle Puppies, Labradoodle Training, Manor Lake, Manor Lake Customers, Purchasing A Labradoodle | No Comments »

Your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle's Body Language

Thursday, January 8th, 2009

We thought this article was very interesting and wanted to share!
How To Read Your Dog’s Body Language
Body Language Basics
By Stanley Coren | Illustrations by Emma Trithart

What is your dog trying to tell you? Dogs have a language that allows them to communicate their emotional state and their intentions to others around them. Although dogs do use sounds and signals, much of the information that they send is through their body language, specifically their facial expressions and body postures.

Understanding what your dog is saying can give you a lot of useful information, such as when your dog is spooked and nervous about what is going on, or when your dog is edgy and might be ready to snap at someone. You do have to look at the dog’s face and his whole body.

To help you, I have created a sort of visual version of a Berlitz phrase book to allow you to interpret the eight most important messages your dog is sending to you.

1. Relaxed Approachable

1relaxed_0

This dog is relaxed and reasonably content. Such a dog is unconcerned and unthreatened by any activities going on in his immediate environment and is usually approachable.

2. Alert- Checking Things Out

2alert_0

If the dog has detected something of interest, or something unknown, these signals communicate that he is now alert and paying attention while he is assessing the situation to determine if there is any threat or if any action should be taken.

3. Dominant Aggressive

3dominant

This is a very dominant and confident animal. Here he is not only expressing his social dominance, but is also threatening that he will act aggressively if he is challenged.

4. Fearful and Aggressive

4fearful

This dog is frightened but is not submissive and may attack if pressed. A dog will generally give these signals when he is directly facing the individual who is threatening him.

5. Stressed and Distressed

5stressed

This dog is under either social or environmental stress. These signals, however, are a general “broadcast” of his state of mind and are not being specifically addressed to any other individual.

6. Fearful and Worried

6fearful_worried

This dog is somewhat fearful and is offering signs of submission. These signals are designed to pacify the individual who is of higher social status or whom the dog sees as potentially threatening, in order to avoid any further challenges and prevent conflict.

7. Extreme Fear- Total Submission

7extremefear

This dog is indicating total surrender and submission. He is trying to say that he accepts his lower status by groveling before a higher ranking or threatening individual in the hopes of avoiding a physical confrontation.

8. Playfulness

8playful1

Here we have the basic invitation to play. It may be accompanied by excited barking or playful attacks and retreats. This set of signals may be used as a sort of “punctuation mark” to indicate that any previous rough behaviour was not meant as a threat or challenge.

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