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Find Out If Your Australian Labradoodle Is A Genius

Thursday, May 7th, 2009

Awesome article about your Australian Labradoodle’s memory
Is Your Dog a Genius?

Test Your Dog’s Memory

By Stanley Coren

You only go to the vet maybe once a year for those regular check-ups and booster shots, but, sure enough, whenever you get within five blocks of the vet’s office, your dog starts whining, panting, and looking anxious. Does she really remember from year to year the exact route you drive to get there?

Most people are interested in how intelligent their dog is. While there are predictable differences based upon the dog’s breed (for example, Border Collies are a lot smarter and more trainable than Bulldogs), there is a lot of variability within each breed. This means that some Border Collies might be rather slow-thinking, while some Bulldogs might be college material. There are some well-documented tests for the general mental abilities of dogs (such as the one described in my book, The Intelligence of Dogs), and all such tests include measures of a dog’s memory.

Memory is a critical component of dog intelligence, since your dog can’t learn if she can’t remember. This makes tests of a dog’s memory a good approximation of just how bright she is in general. However, memory changes with age. Older dogs show symptoms that are similar to the memory losses found in older humans, and severe cases show memory declines similar to those found in Alzheimer’s Disease (in dogs, it is called “Canine Cognitive Dysfunction”).

Whether you are merely curious about your dog’s memory ability or worried about possible memory loss in an older dog, here is a simple test that you can give your dog at home. Two conditions must be met for the test to be valid.

First, your dog (to be original, let’s call her “Lassie”) must be at least a year old. It is also necessary for Lassie to have been living in the same place for at least ten weeks; otherwise the environmental memory test won’t work. You’ll need a stopwatch or a watch with a second hand, and an assistant to hold the dog is helpful.

Short-term memory
The first test looks at short-term memory. You may observe failures in your own short term memory in situations when you ask for a phone number from an operator and correctly dial it immediately, meaning that the number is stored in your short-term memory. However, when you get a busy signal and hang up to dial the number again, you often find you’ve forgotten the number, since short-term memory fades quickly.

The test requires an average-sized room that doesn’t have a lot of furniture or other material cluttering it. You need a tidbit of food that has no strong odour (otherwise, Lassie’s scenting ability will bias the results). If Lassie will not reliably sit and stay on command, have a helper present to hold her.

To start, place Lassie on a leash, and have her sit in the center of the room. While she watches you, show her the treat, then, with a great exaggerated show (but no sound), place the tidbit in a corner, making sure that she sees you put it down. Lead her out of the room, walk around in a small circle, and then bring her back to the center of the room. Leaving the room and returning to it should take no more than about fifteen seconds. Slip the leash off the dog, and start the stopwatch.

Scoring
If Lassie goes directly to the bait, score 5.
If she systematically sniffs around the edge of the room and finds the tidbit, score 4.
If she seems to search in a random fashion but nevertheless finds the tidbit within 45 seconds, score 3.
If she appears to try to find the tidbit but still hasn’t succeeded after 45 seconds, score 2.
If she makes no effort to find the bait, score 1.

Long-term memory
The next test looks at long-term memory, which is relatively permanent and long lasting. Give this test immediately after the preceding test. The set-up is identical to the short term memory test. Make sure, however, that you place the tidbit in a different corner than the one you used for the short-term memory test. Take Lassie out of the room and keep her out of the room for five minutes. Then return her to the center of the room, slip off the leash, and start the stopwatch.

Scoring
If Lassie goes directly to the bait, score 5.
If she goes to the corner where the first bait was and then quickly goes to the correct corner, score 4.
If she systematically sniffs around the edge of the room and finds the tidbit, score 3.
If she seems to search in a random fashion but still finds the tidbit within 45 seconds, score 2.
If she appears to try to find the tidbit but still hasn’t succeeded after 45 seconds, score 1.
If she makes no effort to find the bait, score 0.

Environmental memory
This next test looks at environmental memory, which simply means how well your dog remembers the world around her. While Lassie is out of the house, rearrange the furniture in a roo that is familiar to her. For example, you could bring a few additional chairs into the room, move a large piece of furniture toward the center of the room, place a coffee table in an odd corner, move a side table to the center of the room, or create several other obvious disturbances of the usual pattern of furniture placement. Try to make sure that at least five things are obviously different in the room. Then bring Lassie into the room and start your stopwatch while you stand quietly.

Scoring
If Lassie notices something is different within 15 seconds and starts to explore or sniff any changed aspect of the room, score 5.
If she notices the differences and checks out any one changed aspect of the room in 15 to 30 seconds, score 4.
If she does so in thirty to sixty seconds, score 3.
If she looks around cautiously, seems to notice something is different, but does not explore any changed aspect of the room, score 2.
If a minute passes, and she still ignores the changes, score 1.

Alternate choice memory
The final test involves alternate choice memory, or how well the dog remembers one of several possibilities. For this test, you need three identical, empty tin cans or plastic cups. Rub the inside of each with the tidbit of food that you will be using as bait, so that Lassie can’t use smell to guide her choice. Next, while she watches, show her the empty cans and arrange them in a row upside-down with about one foot (30 cm) between each. With exaggerated movements, show her the treat, then lift the middle can and place the treat under it. Slip the leash off and let her go. Whether she actually gets the treat or not by knocking over the can is irrelevant for this test, but note the attention that she pays to each can.

Scoring
If Lassie goes directly to the middle can, score 5.
If she goes to one of the outside cans first, then shifts her attention and starts nosing the middle can while ignoring the others, score 4.
If she sniffs at all three cans and then returns to pay attention to the middle can, score 3.
If she circles the cans sniffing or poking at each indiscriminately, score 2.
If she wanders around or ignores the cans, score 1.

What the score means
Add the scores from the four tests. If your dog scores 17 to 20, her memory is extremely good. Scores from 13 to 16 are above average, while 9 to 12 are average. Scores of 6 to 8 are borderline, while scores of 5 or less would place a dog in the bottom 10 percent of all dogs.

Although it is simply fun to know how good your dog’s memory is, it is also a useful thing to measure your dog’s memory when she is a healthy adult. You will then have a score to use as a reference to see if your dog’s memory is declining as she grows older.

If your dog’s memory is good, it will be easier for her to learn. If your dog’s memory is bad, it will be easier for her to forget that she was pinched or pulled by a particular child. She will also be less likely to remember that she should be still bearing a grudge against you for a late dinner or a missed walk-or that last trip to the vet. ■

Stanley Coren is Professor of Psychology at the University of British Columbia and author of several books on dogs, including The Intelligence of Dogs and How Dogs Think. His website is stanleycoren.com

This article is from the Modern Dog Website-http://www.moderndogmagazine.com/articles/your-dog-genius/145

Posted in Australian Labradoodles, Labradoodle Training, Manor Lake Customers | 1 Comment »

Puppy Mouthing and Nipping for Australian Labradoodles

Tuesday, May 5th, 2009

We frequently get questions about puppies mouthing and nipping – the below is an article with some good tips.

NIPPING THE HAND THAT FEEDS YOU

This article is in response to the many, many, questions I have received about nipping problems in puppies. It’s a common problem. I hope the following will help explain why it is so common and how to turn the behavior into something more agreeable for everyone.

WHY PUPPIES NIP:

Dogs live their life without our most useful “tool” – opposable thumbs. We can grasp and hold things to feel and examine them; dogs use their mouths to explore their world. Puppies have a lot to learn. Not only do they have to learn how to be dogs, but they also must learn how to live with humans. That can be the hardest part! We, as humans, also have to learn somewhat how dogs work, and the communication gap can be enormous!

One of the biggest tools puppies have to learn with is their mouth – not only for vocalization, but to touch and feel and explore…and test their limits! Think about a litter of puppies playing. They are rough and tumble – they bite, nibble, and bark. If one puppy bites another too hard, the bitten puppy lets out a screech which usually is successful in getting the hard nipper to temper his bites. This is how they LEARN, and a BIG part of learning is DOING IT WRONG! This is how anyone, including a puppy, can learn to DO IT RIGHT. If a puppy isn’t doing something wrong, he cannot be shown what right is.

Puppies will test their limits with you, too. Nipping and mouthing is a big part of that testing. They mouth and grab hands, pant legs, skirts, etc. Part of how you teach a puppy to temper their biting lies back with how his litter mates taught him – a shrill shriek “OW!!” to let him know he’s gone too far – even if it didn’t hurt that much. One thing that you are responsible for training this puppy – that should start EARLY- is that UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES should that puppy’s teeth touch your bare skin. Now, I know Lab owners are going to say “my puppy enjoys taking my hand into his mouth sometimes”. Dogs understand ALWAYS or NEVER, YES or NO. They do not understand SOMETIMES and MAYBE! You will be giving your dog too much human reasoning by letting him decide when it is appropriate to take your hand in his mouth or to nibble your hand!

WAYS TO TEACH “NICE”
I like the word “nice” or “easy” when I teach a dog to respect my skin. If my puppy gets wild and nippy, I will take his collar (after I let out a big “Ow!!” for nipping too hard) and give it a little tug and offer my hand back to the puppy and tell him, in a firm voice, “NO, NICE!” If the puppy nips again, I repeat the command and tug a little firmer, “I said “NO, NICE!” If the puppy licks your hand, sniffs it, or turns his head away, I tell him “Good, NICE!!” and make sure my voice sounds pleased. Each time the puppy gets away with a nip without working your “NICE” command means he has learned that he can, in fact, get away with nipping – and he will continue to do it.
 
 

 

You can also “set up” teaching “NICE” to your dog (as opposed to waiting for it to happen). I get a bunch of small, soft treats (small and soft means that the puppy will not forget why he got the treat if all he has to do is swallow it. He will forget if you give him a biscuit and it takes him 3 minutes to chew it up!) and hold one in the fingers of one hand. In the other hand – I have the puppy’s collar, and he is sitting close to me. I offer the treat to the puppy and remind him that we are being “NICE”. If he lunges for the treat, I give him a tug on his collar and remind him, “NO, NICE!” The same goes if he grabs the treat and any part of my hand or fingers. (Note: the hand that is holding the treat remains stationary It is the hand holding the puppy that will move and tug the puppy away from the food. If you move your “food hand”, you will encourage the puppy to chase the treat – dogs like moving objects.) With this exercise, the puppy will eventually learn to take the treat without even touching your skin with his teeth.

HEADING OFF TROUBLE:
Now, after all this – some big “NO NOs” that will undermine your attempts to have what we call “bite inhibition” (in other words, what you were just taught to teach your puppy). NEVER, NEVER, play hand games that will rile up your puppy and encourage him to lunge for your hand, or any other part of your body. That is not part of teaching ALWAYS or NEVER! Chase games, especially for herding dogs (German Shepherds, Bouviers, Collies, Shelties, Border Collies, Corgis, etc.) will also encourage them to nip and bite at legs and heels. Not good! The best games to play are games involving fetch and toys. One trainer says that any time you play with your dog, make sure you have a toy between you and the puppy. NEVER play tug of war with your puppy – that will only make your puppy think of himself as your equal! The only time I will play tug of war is when I have a wimpy puppy – but I always start the game, and I always finish it too. I also make sure I have taught my puppy a firm “Out” , “Release”, or “Drop it!” command to make sure I don’t have a problem or confrontation when I want the toy back.
 
 

 

Remember, you’re in charge!
Your puppy looks to you for consistent – and persistent - training.

Pam Young, LVT CDBC CPDT  
Dog Gone Good LLC
Dog Behavior Consultant
Personal Dog Trainer
Copyright 1996- 2006, Pam Young 
Dog Training Basics
www.dogtrainingbasics.com 
All Rights Reserved

Posted in Australian Labradoodles, Labradoodle Advice, Labradoodle Puppies, Labradoodle Training | No Comments »

Urban Dog Etiquette For Your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle

Thursday, March 19th, 2009

How to properly promenade your pooch in public

City-dwelling dogkeepers are faced with greater challenges than their suburban and rural counterparts. Without a large, fenced yard for exercise, the city dweller must take to the streets three or more times a day with Fido or Fifi in tow. Crowded sidewalks replete with joggers, construction scaffolding and double-wide strollers turn each outing into an obstacle course. The following tips will make walks safer and more enjoyable for you, your dog and your neighbors.

It’s the law

Most cities and counties have some form of leash, license and pick-up-after-your-dog laws. These ordinances are designed to protect both the dog and the community at large. When leashed, a dog is safe from traffic and unable to follow his instincts to chase children, investigate garbage cans or dig up landscaping. Whether a dog is friendly or aggressive, a leash keeps him in check and allows the public to pass undisturbed. Some communities have leash-length restrictions. Whether it’s the law or not, keep leashes to six feet or less on public sidewalks. Retractable leashes should not be used in areas frequented by joggers, skaters or cyclists; the thin line blends into the background and,all too often, athlete and dog collide.

Licensing a dog enables an animal control agency to return a lost pet to his rightful owner. Also, licensing fees often support local animal control efforts. In addition, the number of licenses issued gives government officials an idea of how many dogs are in the community, statistics that are very helpful when planning dog runs, shelter expansions and the like.

Pooper-scooper laws are essential for both the health and beautification of the community. Canine diseases and parasites are often shed in feces, which puts other dogs and children at risk. And no one enjoys maneuvering through unsightly piles of dog waste when out for a stroll. Pick up feces using a plastic bag, and knot the top to control odor and flies before disposing of it in a waste receptacle. Train your dog to urinate in gutters or on nonliving vertical surfaces, such as lampposts or hydrants. Avoid trees and flowerbeds.

Etiquette lessons and safety tips

The well-trained city dog needs to respond to a minimum of four basic commands: “Sit-Stay,” “Heel,” “Leave it” and “Come.” When you’re waiting at a traffic light, a dog in a sitstay is out of harm’s way. And while walking nicely on a loose leash is enough for most forays, there are times when your dog will need to be at heel position, which keeps her under control at your side.

The command “Leave it” is employed when it is necessary for Fido to avert his gaze. Whether he’s being tantalized by chicken bones or a jogger, getting your dog to break eye contact with “forbidden fruit” before he acts enables you to draw his attention to safer rewards and pursuits. Or, should the dog slip his collar or break his leash, a recall command (“Come”) could save his life. Most, if not all, of these commands are taught in basic obedience/manners class. Contact your local shelter for a referral to a class near you.

Remember that dogs can be frightened by sudden loud noises, such as running children, motorcycles, skateboarders and in-line skaters, to name a few. Be aware that such situations may demand quick and complete control on your part to prevent your dog from lunging or biting.

Before leaving home to run errands with your dog by your side, take a moment to consider which places permit dogs and which do not. For your pet’s safety, leave him at home when he is not allowed to go into an establishment with you. A dog left tied to a post or parking meter is an easy target for teasing or theft.

Remember the good neighbor policy

Keep in mind that not everyone loves dogs, so it’s up to the urban dogkeeper to present a dog who is well-socialized and under control. When riding in an elevator, sit your dog in a far corner to avoid door-dashing each time the elevator makes a stop. Do not allow Fido to jump up on other riders, even when the greeting is friendly. Hurry through lobbies or take freight elevators and back exits if the building rules mandate it. Never allow your dog to soil in front of the building’s entrance. If you have a young pup or dog-in-training who can’t control himself, be sure to carry paper towels and odor neutralizer.

Many dogs enjoy the company of other canines, but always ask before allowing your animal to launch himself at another dog—for both their sakes. The same is true regarding children. First ask the child or her parent, “May my dog say hello to you?” before allowing physical contact. The greeting should not include jumping, bouncing off or grabbing at the child—even if it is done in the spirit of friendliness. If your dog is physically challenging, consider using a head halter for better control.

When we choose to keep dogs in crowded urban areas, we take on additional responsibilities. Unfortunately, when little consideration is shown for the neighbors, more doors close to dogkeepers. On the other hand, with a little training and thoughtfulness, more businesses and public areas will begin to put out the welcome mat for both you and your dog.

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Fun Activities For Your Kids and Your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle

Wednesday, March 11th, 2009

Healthy play habits between kids and family pets don’t always come naturally—children need guidance in interacting safely and respectfully with animals. Luckily the best way to learn how to play nice is to enjoy lots of great games together. ASPCA behaviorists offer some fun, age-appropriate activities that help develop trust and a loving bond between your kids and pets.

Play Time

Arrange play dates for your kids and pets—supervised by you—to help build a mutual respect in the same way that play dates between children create healthy friendships.

Activities

Kids 6 Months To 2 Years Old:

  • Your child can lie on the floor and your dog or cat can jump over him.
  • You and your child can hide and then call your pet to come find you.
  • Young children love peek-a-boo games. Try holding up a cloth so that your pet is concealed. Let your child pull the cloth aside, making your pet “appear.”
  • If your pet is gentle, your child can smear his own fingers and toes with peanut butter or a soft cheese product and let your pet lick them clean. (Try this with your fingers first. If your pet’s nibbling is too rough, choose another activity.)
  • Children in a high chair, crib or playpen can drop food for your pet to enjoy, but please avoid using animal treats because your child might eat them. It is also ESSENTIAL to avoid using foods that are dangerous to pets. Stick to healthy people food such as green beans, carrot sticks, apple slices (without seeds), unsalted pretzels and plain, cooked pasta.

Kids 3 To 8 Years Old:

  • Your child and dog can race with each other to a designated finish line. If necessary, you can run with your dog on a leash.
  • Your child can throw a toy for your pet to retrieve.
  • Armed with treats, your child can hide while you stay with your pet. When your child calls out, let your pet go search for him. When your pet finds him, let your child give the treats as a reward.
  • If your dog likes to chase water sprayed from a hose or water gun, your child can operate the sprayer or toy gun. While you’re supervising, have your child spray the ground a few feet away from your dog and then rapidly move the stream of water away from her, along the ground. (Watch your dog for signs that she’s not having fun anymore. If she isn’t actively chasing or trying to bite the stream of water, it’s time to stop.)
  • Your child can blow bubbles for your pet to catch. You can purchase a bubble toy made especially for dogs, such as the Fetch a Bubble Big Bubble Blaster or the Bubble Buddy™. These toys produce flavored bubbles that are safe for dogs to ingest. Please do not use regular bubble solution. It can cause mild stomach upset and can sting your pet’s eyes.
  • Your child and pet can team up to find treats that you’ve hidden. While your pet can excel at finding things hidden near the ground, your child can find things hidden higher-up.
  • Your child can entice your pet to chase a toy tied to the end of a rope. You can also buy an inexpensive lunge whip from a horse tack or feed store and tie a ball or other toy to the end of it. Then your child can twirl the whip in a big circle and let your pet chase the toy.

Kids 9 To 13 Years Old:

  • Children of this age can benefit from attending basic dog obedience classes with their dogs.
  • Your child can play soccer-type games and Frisbee with your dog.
  • Some children appreciate the challenge of competing with a dog in agility or in games such as flyball.
  • Your child can search the Internet or library to find new tricks to teach your pet, such as Roll Over, Shake, Sit Up and Beg.

http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/kids-and-pets/fun-activities-for-kids-and-pets.html

Posted in Australian Labradoodles, Labradoodle Puppies, Labradoodle Training, Manor Lake, Manor Lake Customers, Purchasing A Labradoodle | No Comments »

Your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle's Body Language

Thursday, January 8th, 2009

We thought this article was very interesting and wanted to share!
How To Read Your Dog’s Body Language
Body Language Basics
By Stanley Coren | Illustrations by Emma Trithart

What is your dog trying to tell you? Dogs have a language that allows them to communicate their emotional state and their intentions to others around them. Although dogs do use sounds and signals, much of the information that they send is through their body language, specifically their facial expressions and body postures.

Understanding what your dog is saying can give you a lot of useful information, such as when your dog is spooked and nervous about what is going on, or when your dog is edgy and might be ready to snap at someone. You do have to look at the dog’s face and his whole body.

To help you, I have created a sort of visual version of a Berlitz phrase book to allow you to interpret the eight most important messages your dog is sending to you.

1. Relaxed Approachable

1relaxed_0

This dog is relaxed and reasonably content. Such a dog is unconcerned and unthreatened by any activities going on in his immediate environment and is usually approachable.

2. Alert- Checking Things Out

2alert_0

If the dog has detected something of interest, or something unknown, these signals communicate that he is now alert and paying attention while he is assessing the situation to determine if there is any threat or if any action should be taken.

3. Dominant Aggressive

3dominant

This is a very dominant and confident animal. Here he is not only expressing his social dominance, but is also threatening that he will act aggressively if he is challenged.

4. Fearful and Aggressive

4fearful

This dog is frightened but is not submissive and may attack if pressed. A dog will generally give these signals when he is directly facing the individual who is threatening him.

5. Stressed and Distressed

5stressed

This dog is under either social or environmental stress. These signals, however, are a general “broadcast” of his state of mind and are not being specifically addressed to any other individual.

6. Fearful and Worried

6fearful_worried

This dog is somewhat fearful and is offering signs of submission. These signals are designed to pacify the individual who is of higher social status or whom the dog sees as potentially threatening, in order to avoid any further challenges and prevent conflict.

7. Extreme Fear- Total Submission

7extremefear

This dog is indicating total surrender and submission. He is trying to say that he accepts his lower status by groveling before a higher ranking or threatening individual in the hopes of avoiding a physical confrontation.

8. Playfulness

8playful1

Here we have the basic invitation to play. It may be accompanied by excited barking or playful attacks and retreats. This set of signals may be used as a sort of “punctuation mark” to indicate that any previous rough behaviour was not meant as a threat or challenge.

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Manor Lake's Tips For Helping Your Children and Your Australian Labradoodle Puppy Get Along

Tuesday, November 25th, 2008

Kids and Puppies
Strategies for helping kids and puppies get along.
Maryann Mott

Canine behavior consultant Jennifer Shryock regularly works with parents who are struggling to create kid-and-canine harmony at home.

“Sadly, many have the expectation that a puppy and their kids should be able to get along and tolerate one another,” she says. “This backfires as the kids get frustrated with the puppy’s teething behavior, sharp puppy nails, and excitable behavior.”

A trying time for both adults and children is when puppies start getting their adult teeth (between 2 and 10 months of age). To alleviate discomfort, puppies furiously chew on everything, including human fingers and feet. Mouthing and chewing are also ways puppies explore their environment. You can’t stop a puppy from teething, but you can take steps so that your child doesn’t become his favorite chew toy.

Shryock, who has fostered more than 60 dogs while raising three kids, recommends toddlers and young children sit on Mom or Dad’s lap, or stand on a step, to feel more secure around an active puppy. Shryock believes that setting up these structured play times during which young children are elevated makes them less accessible to mouthy puppies. And if a puppy does become overly playful, parents are there to intervene.

Parents can also attach a toy to a long rope and let kids drag it around for the puppy to chase. This should only be done, though, under adult supervision. This game prevents the puppy from pawing and nipping at the child because the toy is the target and is placed at a distance.

“The bottom line is that toddlers and puppiess should only be together with supervision,” Shryock says. Setting up specific structured activities for the two to engage in is the best way to encourage a safe and fun bond.

For children 8 years or older, when the puppy starts biting, Shryock recommends they stand up (if sitting), stay still, and ignore him. The puppy will quickly become bored and look for something else to do. At that point, they can give the dog a toy, which redirects the chewing to an appropriate item.

Children should not push the puppy away, scream stop, or run. When kids react this way, dogs think they’re playing and will continue to bite.

Jan Wall, a former elementary school teacher and creator of the educational website, Loveyourdog.com, says parents can help children develop a better understanding of their pet dog by simply comparing feelings.

For example, ask your children how they would feel if hit or not given food. They’ll probably respond with the words “hurt” or “hungry.” Explain to them that the puppy would feel the same way.

“If they don’t relate those things as being the same as how they feel, the dog is just a toy that they’re going to be sick of in six months,” says Wall.

Here are a few ground rules to cover with your child:

Treat the puppy nicely. Don’t hit, kick, or tease him. No yanking on his tail or pulling at his ears. Dogs will lash out if provoked or hurt.

Speak in a normal tone of voice. Don’t yell or scream in the puppy’s face. His hearing is more sensitive than ours.

Don’t hug or kiss the puppy. Humans show affection this way, but in the canine world, it’s threatening.

If the puppy walks away from you, don’t follow. Walking away means he doesn’t want to play anymore. (Establish a place in your home where your puppy can rest without the kids and their friends disturbing him. Teach your child to respect the puppy’s resting place.)

Don’t bother the puppy when he’s eating or sleeping. These are times when dogs don’t like to be pestered.

Only two hands on the puppy at once. It’s overwhelming when several kids swarm around him. A frightened dog may bite.

Kids will test and retest boundaries. That’s why supervision is mandatory to keep both children and puppies safe. By watching all interaction and teaching children how to properly act around the puppy, things will go a lot more smoothly.

Posted in Australian Labradoodles, Labradoodle Advice, Labradoodle Products, Labradoodle Training, Manor Lake, Manor Lake Customers, Purchasing A Labradoodle | No Comments »

Teaching Your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle "Down"

Monday, November 24th, 2008

Training Your Australian Labradoodle Down
Teaching dogs “down” will keep your guests happy.
Brought to you by Training Your Puppy in 5 Minutes

The next command on your puppy-training agenda is the down exercise. This is initially taught during the Round Robin game. It should be interspersed with the sit commands. In one round, your puppy sits and in the next round, he sits and then lies down before the next person calls him. This is very important, as you don’t want the puppy to believe that he arrives and immediately lies down. He should always come and sit first, awaiting his next command. Dogs are easily pattern-trained. Should you repeat something as few as three times, puppy will learn the pattern and tend to anticipate your commands. While its nice to know that your puppy really wants to please you that much, it doesn’t mean he’s obedience-trained, only pattern-trained.

The down can sometimes be difficult to teach because it is a submissive position. However, due to most young puppies easily giving in to dominance, it shouldn’t be an issue. Some pups might feel dominant at an early age and not take to going down easily. Be certain to make teaching this exercise as positive as possible by using a treat or toy that is totally irresistible.

Once your pup has come and sat in front of you, put the reward beneath his nose and bring your lure and signal down to the floor as you say Pup, down. He should follow the lure, at least with his nose. Even if he only looked at it, reward him for the gesture. Next time, ask for more of a response, such as moving his front end down. The time after that, he should put his front elbows all the way down and the time after that, he should touch all the way down to his tummy, tucking his haunches under. If your pup is resistant to putting his entire body all the way down, apply a little pressure just behind his shoulder blades as you show him the lure and give the down command.

When your puppy understands the down during the Round Robin game, you can add it to your heel and sit repertoire. Every two or three times that you stop, have your pup sit and then lie down prior to receiving his reward and going into the heel again. The more you practice this exercise and maintain everything in a positive manner, the less your pup will think of the position as a vulnerable one and the more he will consider it a rewarding experience. After all, he gets treats and tummy rubs while lying down. What could be better?

Reprinted from Training Your Puppy in 5 Minutes © 2005. Permission granted by Kennel Club Books, an imprint of BowTie Press.

Posted in Australian Labradoodles, Labradoodle Advice, Labradoodle Puppies, Labradoodle Training, Manor Lake Customers | No Comments »

Manor Lake's Training Your Australian Labradoodle Puppy Involving The Whole Family

Friday, November 14th, 2008

A Game the Whole Family Can Play
How to get your kids involved in training.
Pat Miller

Kids and dogs: They go together like peanut butter and jelly. Despite sensational headlines about family canines mauling toddlers, dogs continue to be children’s best pals and confidantes, as they have for centuries.

Uniquely suited to happy dog-kid relationships, positive dog-training methods can also teach children that it’s not necessary or appropriate to use violence with other living beings. And, involving your children in your dog’s training reduces the chances of dog-bites-kid.

Dogs learn in two primary ways. Classical conditioning refers to a dog’s associations with her environment. She likes things that carry positive associations and dislikes negative ones. If you expose your dog to gentle children who share treats, she’ll probably like children.

With operant conditioning, your dog learns to control her environment in order to make good stuff happen and avoid bad stuff. You use operant conditioning to teach behaviors like Sit, Lie Down, and Come. When you train with treats, you also give your dog a positive association with training.

Involve your kids in training as early as possible. Carry your baby in a chest sling or backpack while you train, and your dog will think having the baby around makes treats happen.

Toddlers Can Help with Sit
Your toddler can learn that lifting a hand up to his chest makes your dog sit. To help your dog associate your toddler’s gesture with Sit, instruct your child to feed your dog a treat every time she hears you click the clicker (which I recommend) or use a verbal marker. Have your toddler hide the treat behind his back if your dog jumps up and only give it to her when she sits. This teaches your dog not to grab the treat from his hand and teaches your child not to reward jumping up.

On your part, consistently and lavishly reward your dog for sitting around your toddler, so that she regards the behavior as a highly rewarded default behavior around the child.

Older Kids Can Teach More
Depending on individual maturity, youngsters age six and up can take a more active role, helping you teach new behaviors rather than just practicing known ones. Show them how you teach a new behavior, such as Lie Down. As soon as your dog follows your lure to the ground easily, let the child try it. You’ll reinforce the kids equals treats concept in your dog’s brain, teach your kids how to train, and teach your dog to respect and respond to your children, all at the same time.

You can give children 10 and older primary training responsibilitywith some supervision. Older kids can read good training books and train a new behavior. Have them check with you first to make sure it’s not an undesirable trick, like jumping over the backyard fence.

If your child is interested, enroll her and your dog in a positive training class that encourages mature, responsible tweens and teens to be primary trainers. 4-H is another option, but make sure your local 4-H group doesn’t use force-based tools and methods such as choke chains, prong collars, and leash corrections.

Involving kids with training has another valuable benefit: Your family will all use the same language with your dog and have the same behavior expectations. Consistency in training and management helps your dog learn good manners more quickly and thoroughly, ensuring her a lifelong home with a family that loves her.

Posted in Australian Labradoodles, Labradoodle Advice, Labradoodle Puppies, Labradoodle Training | No Comments »

Training Your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle to Live with Cats

Thursday, November 6th, 2008

We get many questions about our puppies coming into a home with a cat – below are some tips.

Teach Your Dog How to Live with Cats
Learn the steps to help dogs and cats live together peacefully.

Brought to you by Training Your Puppy in 5 Minutes

If it moves, pup will chase it. That’s part of being a predator. It is called the prey drive, and all dogs have it. Most cats will run from a predator. A small percentage will remain still, make themselves look bigger and threaten the predator. Either of these situations can prove dangerous to your puppy.

Cats have a high prey drive also. They also have great self-preservation instincts and the tools to go with them: claws and needle-sharp teeth. Unless you have a cat that was raised with dogs, there will be problems with integration of the two pets. A cat that is acclimated to the movements and actions of a canine will know that she shouldn’t run away from the puppy and should generally accept the pups overtures to a point. When that point is reached, the cat will bat at the pup with the claws retracted. The cat might hiss or spit at the pup. For most pups, this is enough of a hint that he went too far. For some, however, its just an invitation to play harder.

For the bolder pup that learns things the hard way, a cat might prove very dangerous. You will need to step in and redirect your puppy into another game; otherwise, you are risking his being scratched by the cat. A means of redirecting the pup from a distance would be to spray water in his face. This distracts him from the cat game and might even teach him to associate the water spritz with incorrect behavior, thus curing the cat-chasing problem altogether.

Redirection can also be used for games of tag. Cats that have been raised with dogs love to instigate these games. A cat will approach the dog, rub against the dog, flick her tail at the dogs nose and then run. The cat is asking the pup to chase her, and she loves to get the puppy in trouble for racing through the house after her. You remember the Garfield cartoons, don’t you? Garfield loved to get the dog in trouble! The game is especially fun when the cat jumps onto a high perch and the pup can’t follow her, and the pup instead jumps on the closest piece of furniture, leaping up and barking.

This game can be more than annoying to you. It causes a ruckus in the house as well as a mess. However, its also quite entertainingat least to the cat. Theres really no means of preventing this from happening, but you can prepare for it by putting your pup on a leash and keeping him close by. When he is teased by the cat, redirect him to a toy and play with him. He is merely looking for interaction, and your attention will fulfill that need. If he’s faster than you and has already responded to the cat, put your foot on the end of the leash and hold him there until you can redirect him onto something else. Meanwhile, spritz the cat with water to get her away from the puppy. Teaching your cat proper manners around the puppy would also be helpful, but that is another book altogether!

Reprinted from Training Your Puppy in 5 Minutes © 2004. Permission granted by Kennel Club Books, an imprint of BowTie Press.

Posted in Australian Labradoodles, Labradoodle Advice, Labradoodle Puppies, Labradoodle Training, Manor Lake, Manor Lake Customers | 1 Comment »

Manor Lake's Two Must Know Dog Tricks for Your Australian Labradoodle

Monday, November 3rd, 2008

For Your Australian Labradoodle
Two Must-Know Dog Tricks

Animal-actor tricks you can teach your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle.

Your Manor Lake Australian Labradoodle might sport star-quality looks, but he won’t get a second chance without perfecting these two tricks often required of animal actors, say Laurie Williams of the “Ready for Prime Time” Dog Performance Camp:

1. Bow on command. Position a food treat underneath your standing dog’s chest. As your dog moves his front legs down to get the treat and his rear end rises, click one with a dog clicker and say, “Bow.” Then offer the treat. If your dog tries to grab the treat without bowing, tuck the treat into your closed palm. Repeat these steps five or six times. If your dog gets the trick quickly, stop, praise, and move on to another trick to prevent boredom.

2. “Watch me!” Guarantee your dog maintains eye contact to follow your commands on a set by saying, “Watch me,” and touching your nose. As soon as your dog looks at your eyes, click a dog clicker and hand over a treat. Cock your head to the side and reward if your dog mimics the movement. Gradually take away the vocal command and the clicker and reward your dog with a treat each time he responds with a stare when you touch your nose.

http://www.dogchannel.com.

Posted in Australian Labradoodles, Labradoodle Advice, Labradoodle Puppies, Labradoodle Training, Manor Lake, Manor Lake Customers | 1 Comment »

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